Single direction installation diagram

[sho305]

I think it goes the way it charges. Remember it does not charge as much at low rpm, if battery is low it will only show 12.7 or something. When engine runs 2500 or more it will charge the full 15A it can.

Solenoid should not take that much, wiring is wrong or its defective. I know the round one I bought for my cart is near $50 now but it is just like the original that lasted over 20 years.

[mervk]

Both solenoids are brand new, and both draw around 2.4 amps. So, replacing it with one of those marine battery isolator switches with the red key. New wiring diagram below.

[mervk]

Any suggestions guys? I have swapped the voltage regulator with the one on my Yamaha buggy, and the new one works, so that is not my problem. I have followed the wiring on the buggy, and my setup, though simpler, is identical, so I don't believe that is the problem.

Only anomaly I can see is the F2 and F1 on the starter on my buggy are stamped on the opposing terminals than those on the new starter. That is, if I stand them both up the same, the terminal stamped F2 on the Yamaha starter is actually stamped F1 on the new unit. A1 and A2 on the end plate are the same.

Guess this comes down to the internal wiring? But where can I find info to check that wiring? Is it possible they are stamped wrongly?

If I swap the F1 and F2 cables on the new unit, what damage can I cause?

Out of my depth here, so welcome any comment. Cheers. Merv.

[sho305]

I just don't remember all this stuff I'd have to look it up again I don't have time right now. I don't know if reverse rotation would affect charging, if in fact your gen is running reversed from what it was made for. If you reverse polarity they do run backwards they are DC. But most DC motors do have some timing in them.

[mervk]

sch305, thanks so much for your reply and concern. I appreciate your attempt to help. Only thing left now is the generator, and have to assume the stampings on the case are correct, even though different to the one it's sold to replace on my buggy.

I'll wait a day or so and see if anyone else has a suggestion, before posting it off somewhere to someone who should be capable of testing it correctly. Cheers. Merv.

[mervk]

Well, we have finally managed to get it to charge. The wiring we used is in the diagram attached, however we can not find a single wiring diagram on the net that will show this wiring. So assume something is wrong/different in this starter/generator.

And now it is working as designed, I am going to remove it all, consign it to the bin, refit the alternator and go back to hand crank start with my old Fairmont railway buggy.

Many thanks to sho305 for your replies, they were appreciated.

Cheers

Merv Kroll
downunder

[sho305]

Why are you taking it off? Some gen have one end of the field attached to one of the large posts inside the gen, and there is only one field wire then instead of two.

[mervk]

It's working great, and is what I wanted. However it only charges when my motor is running at a considerable number of revs. On my Yamaha, when I pull up, the motor normally stops, and starts again when I depress the pedal to move off again. On my rail buggy, there are periods of idling, and when not charging, the generator acts as a motor, getting very hot and dragging current from the battery, even though the motor is running.

So I'm facing one of two options. Can't alter the pully side of the motor, so will need to go to a very small pully on the gen. I'm still scratching my head on this.

Alternately, perhaps I could go back to activating the solenoid with a button during starting only, and install a auxillary battery vsr, where it is wired from the gen side of the solenoid, to the batt. positive. This would only allow current to flow from the generator to the battery, and would only cut in at 13.3v, cutting out again at 12.7v. Current would not flow in reverse, therefore the gen. would never act as a starter at low revs unless I had my finger on the button.

Just not sure yet if the generator will tell the vsr that 13.3v is available, before the link is activated. Hope I explained all that so it can be understood. Not big on words sometimes. Link is a Navara voltage sensitive relay isolator that would let me do this.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NARVA-610...EAAOSwA29Y5SFL

One thing is for sure, my brain's getting a good workout for a change.

Cheers, Merv.

[sho305]

On a cart it wont take current until you get very slow; down to the cranking speed of 600rpm or whatever it is. You set the idle above that then if its running it can't take current, because with a cart it shuts off if you let off the pedal. The idea is to not have it run unless necessary, no idle time with a cart means a lot less fuel use. The gen is made to start it many times in use. Looks like the pulley size is an issue.

Not sure how you would sense high rpm. You could put a micro switch on the throttle if it uses more throttle at high rpm. Could do the same off the fan with air pressure, that is how a lot of old lawn governors ran off the fan for push mowers. The gen can't charge without being connected to the battery so you can't sense voltage, I don't think, maybe you can somehow. You could run a small gel battery on it and sense voltage on that then relay the normal battery when high, or I'm just over thinking it.

[mervk]

I have a use for the voltage sensitive relay on another project, so have ordered one anyway. It is earthed, so it may be able to fool the generator into throwing out a charge without the connection to the battery. We'll see when it turns up in the post.

Been out this morning trying to source a pulley with an od smaller then 3 inch and a 17mm shaft size, but the place where I would get one is closed. Saturday morning here already. May have better luck next week. Will keep you posted.

Cheers