Help an old fool out with his TXT

[noxin]

Originally Posted by mgray70

With the rear wheels off the ground, jump across the large terminals of the solenoid with a heavy gauge battery cable to see if the wheels will turn.

This is how I diagnosed a bad solenoid on a friend's cart -- even though it was clicking when the pedal was pressed, there was no movement. Jumped the large terminals on solenoid and success

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by noxin

This is how I diagnosed a bad solenoid on a friend's cart -- even though it was clicking when the pedal was pressed, there was no movement. Jumped the large terminals on solenoid and success

All you are doing there is bypassing the solenoid... This is not a definitive test for a bad solenoid.
9 times out of 10 the solenoid is good and the activation circuit is bad... I'm just saying you cannot simply bypass a solenoid and say it is bad unless you confirm it is being activated properly and not passing current. And if it is being activated (48v between the 2 small terminals) and it does not have 48v at BOTH big terminals then it is bad and bypassing it will only test the controller and motor - not the solenoid.
I hope this helps
See more here > http://www.cartsunlimited.net/troubleshooting-tips.html

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by scottyb

To be sure and clear - remove the pre-charge resistor. Any way you like supply positive to one small solenoid post and negative to the other small solenoid post. The solenoid should have CLICKED and closed.
Before the click 48v (or 36) at one big post ( cable connecting to the battery pack)
After the click 48v (or 36) at both big posts

If yes to all conditions above the solenoid is okay fix the activation circuit starting with the bypassed pedal switch.

When I suggested that, it was after he had already confirmed that he has voltage between the small post at the solenoid and it wasn't clicking. I was basically using it as a confirmation, and to see if the cart would run before purchasing a solenoid. I wasn't saying that is the best way to check the solenoid.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[55BigBlock]

I disconnected the pack, removed the precharge resistor plus one lead to the controller. Then I ran a jumper from the negative side of the pack to the negative side of the solenoid coil. I also ran a jumper between the positive side of the pack and positive side of the solenoid coil. I had 37 volts across the coil. There is NO click. Unless someone tells me I've missed something, I'm picking up a solenoid tomorrow.

[Mooncarter]

Solenoid is bad.

[Mooncarter]

You did this with the small posts right?

[55BigBlock]

Yes, pack voltage applied to 2 small posts while pack was disconnected from cart. While connected with jumpers, I measured 37 volts across the solenoid coil terminals, NO click. Coil resistance is around 140 ohms which seems to be in spec based on some info I found, but when the coil is energized, it isn't pulling the contactor in.

[55BigBlock]

It's alive!! Finally got a chance today and changed the solenoid. The old girl woke right up. I also changed the microswitch in the pedal box. I don't know what had happened there but it was so far out of adjustment the roller had gotten in a bind and broken off the original one.

[Denzone]

Glad you got it going...