Front suspension

[Andy4639]

The cart is a 1990 Ezgo Marathon. It has issues when up to speed as in around 40 MPH yes you read that right. I used my old dragster posi trac 7:1 rear end and high speed 72 volt motor built by Plum Quick.
It's drive able but would like it to be a bit more controllable at the higher speeds. I was just wondering what any of ya'll had done to yours to make it handle better. I have the full R&P also in the dragster but if I pull it I want be able to move the cart. I do have another full setup out of a older TXT I scraped a few years ago it also is a R&P.
The first thing I need to do I guess is remove the wooden spacers he put in the front springs! Maybe add some type of a sway bar up front maybe.
Give me some idea's and welding it isn't a problem, I have both gas & non gas welders at my disposale.

Here is the link to it with pictures.



http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/membe...-new-ride.html

Andy
IT'S A GOLF CART !!!!!
not meant to go 40mph
1990 ?? yea not good
can i get an insurance policy on you ?

[meimk]

As Crash has already mentioned you are looking at 40 mph on a suspension designed to run 12 mph. I've seen a few weld an extension on the steering knuckle and add a steering stabilizer. Don't know if that would be enough to reign it in bit or not.

[Andy4639]

Guy's we drag raced these thing's @ over 60 MPH, one guy even was running a 3 wheeler at over 80 MPH and that was 10 years ago! Yes I know it's only meant for 15 MPH but hey I got to beat my neighbors to the beach for that perfect spot to setup the chairs!


I went up to the shop and started messing with the front end. I got the tie rods off but man those threads where on there good. I couldn't move them on the cart at all so I took the things off and put in the vise and used a 24" pipe wrench to get them to move + a some PB blaster!
I got them all working good and reinstalled and realigned the front end and set it back on the ground and noticed the passenger side wheel looked a little off. It's sticking out of the front fender a 1/2" further than the drivers side!I'll try and fix that tomorrow and grease all the fittings.

[Cobra,1]

Wow that’s a fast cart��
As a retired auto tech I’ll throw this out there on steering. Again you know your modded suspension better then me as well as how much travel it has.

The effects of front end alignment on how carts steer.

Toe influence’s how sensitive, twitchy steering is. Reason we run an amount of toe “in”, to lessen this sensitivity.
Camber effects tire wear,assuming straight line driving, it is the amount tire leans in or or out.
Caster,it effects the amount of steering effort required by driver to turn wheels, also effects wheels to self center after a turn is made. This is measured by how front the wheel axle is in relation to the top and bottom pivot point. (Referred to as ball joint inclination) If you were to draw line between top ball joint(pivot point) and lower ball joint (bottom pivot point)ball joints also referred to as kingpins on golf carts. If axle is forward of center line,steering will be easy but not want to return to center if steering wheel released after turn.( positivecaster). axle behind center line it requires more steering input from steering wheel but steering will return to center after turn is made.
Ball joints are more forgiving in maintaining alignment during suspension travel opposed to kingpins that are a fixed pivot point.

These are what effect steering charitaristics. Howevever with suspension lifts with longer travel, toe, caster and depending camper will change thruout suspensions range from compressed( going over bumps) to rebounded( relaxed on flat roads).again ball joints less effected compared to fixed kingpins. Reason cars moved to balljoint suspension.

Basics of front end alignment settings��

I would check basic alignment specs,make sure all components tight. Sway bar will aid in turns. Keeping cart from leaning in turns, but you may consider steering stabilizer if extreme lift at those speeds to help dampen feed back.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Cobra,1

Wow that’s a fast cart��
As a retired auto tech I’ll throw this out there on steering. Again you know your modded suspension better then me as well as how much travel it has.

The effects of front end alignment on how carts steer.

Toe influence’s how sensitive, twitchy steering is. Reason we run an amount of toe “in”, to lessen this sensitivity.
Camber effects tire wear,assuming straight line driving, it is the amount tire leans in or or out.
Caster,it effects the amount of steering effort required by driver to turn wheels, also effects wheels to self center after a turn is made. This is measured by how front the wheel axle is in relation to the top and bottom pivot point. (Referred to as ball joint inclination) If you were to draw line between top ball joint(pivot point) and lower ball joint (bottom pivot point)ball joints also referred to as kingpins on golf carts. If axle is forward of center line,steering will be easy but not want to return to center if steering wheel released after turn.( positivecaster). axle behind center line it requires more steering input from steering wheel but steering will return to center after turn is made.
Ball joints are more forgiving in maintaining alignment during suspension travel opposed to kingpins that are a fixed pivot point.

These are what effect steering charitaristics. Howevever with suspension lifts with longer travel, toe, caster and depending camper will change thruout suspensions range from compressed( going over bumps) to rebounded( relaxed on flat roads).again ball joints less effected compared to fixed kingpins. Reason cars moved to balljoint suspension.

Basics of front end alignment settings��

I would check basic alignment specs,make sure all components tight. Sway bar will aid in turns. Keeping cart from leaning in turns, but you may consider steering stabilizer if extreme lift at those speeds to help dampen feed back.

Cobra that was a mouth full sir!
Thanks for the info though. Yea I don't really know what I need yet. Today when I started taking things loose just about every nut on it was hand tight at best except for the dang tie rod threads that adjust the lentgh. I had a good 1/4" of space between the top of the spindle and the knuckle that holds it in place on both sides and not one cotter key in any of the caslte nuts.
The front springs he used wood blocks for spacers so I need to get those out and put metal in. I'm sure they are weak and letting it do whatever it wants when you hit a bump.
I have several of these front axles and I may just weld up a new one with the drop axle and do away with the spacers all together.

[NCPW]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

It's sticking out of the front fender a 1/2" further than the drivers side!I'll try and fix that tomorrow and grease all the fittings.
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The spindle isn't bent on that passenger side is it? Looking forward to seeing what you do with this build Andy

[Skoal82]

Maybe a few trailing arms. Like two on the bottom strait and two on the top angled in or out. That should keep the axle in place. Replace shocks with coil overs.
I thought of doing this to my marathon that was lifted. When above 25 mph it would be all over the road.

[Rooster59]

If he used wood spacers it is likely the front end isn't square either. Make sure the measurements diagonally from the spring mounts to the tips of the springs is the same dimension. Some folks don't realize that front end can be way out if square.

I have no idea if that would cause your issue.

[Cobra,1]

Agreed something looks bent on front end,picture shows left side at an angle compared to right side maybe?
Does it look like frame, front end may have been welded/repaired at some point?
Use magnetic angle finder to see if both spindle/king pin assembly are the same.
If they differ leaning in or out,that would be camber.
However if the differ leaning front to rear, that would be caster that would definetlly cause your problem.
Wood spacers to me indicate someone was trying to compensate for other then lifts original design.
Remove and get cart siting level then measure to make sure everything is square.
beings your doing extreme speeds all needs to be square on front end before alignment can be done.😊