96' Ezgo TXT 12v Reducer Switch Wire Help!

[JakeJones8]

I am building a 96' Ezgo TXT 36v from the frame up. It has a two pole key ignition and F/R handle under the seat that kills all the power when in "N". I want my 12v reducer (5 wire 25a from ScottyB) to maintain power while I am shifting from "F" to "R" so all my accessories don't flash off and on.

Questions:
1) Does the reducer switch-on wire have to get 36v (or will 12v work)?
-If it will turn on the reducer with only 12v then I could get a 4 pole key switch and use that as it is my understanding those are half 36v (original ignition wiring) and half 12v (for accessories).
-Or, is it possible to get a 4 pole key switch that is 36v on both circuits so both position 2 and 3 are 36v output?

2) Assuming the switch wire needs 36v, I could install a rocker switch between the battery and the reducer switch wire to flip on whenever I want to use my 12v accessories. Going this route, it would require a 36DVC rated switch though I am assuming. Does anyone know what the Amps have to be rated at 36DVC for it to be safe?

Thanks!

(also open to other ideas)

[Mooncarter]

Talk to Scotty about this. But I think you have several basic misunderstandings about how these work and how they are wired.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JakeJones8

I am building a 96' Ezgo TXT 36v from the frame up. It has a two pole key ignition and F/R handle under the seat that kills all the power when in "N". I want my 12v reducer (5 wire 25a from ScottyB) to maintain power while I am shifting from "F" to "R" so all my accessories don't flash off and on.

Questions:
1) Does the reducer switch-on wire have to get 36v (or will 12v work)?
-If it will turn on the reducer with only 12v then I could get a 4 pole key switch and use that as it is my understanding those are half 36v (original ignition wiring) and half 12v (for accessories).
-Or, is it possible to get a 4 pole key switch that is 36v on both circuits so both position 2 and 3 are 36v output?

2) Assuming the switch wire needs 36v, I could install a rocker switch between the battery and the reducer switch wire to flip on whenever I want to use my 12v accessories. Going this route, it would require a 36DVC rated switch though I am assuming. Does anyone know what the Amps have to be rated at 36DVC for it to be safe?

Thanks!

(also open to other ideas)

If you are building from the ground up, your three position switch is two separate independent switches. You would use the one that closes in position 2 (off is position 1) for powering the cart. The switch that closes when in position 3 will be wired from pack positive to your reducer trigger. Your reducer 12 volt positive should go to a marine grade fuse block. Marine grade, as it's corrosion resistant AND has a negative bus.

I agree with Mooncarter, you need to spend a little more time reading, studying, and understanding reducers, and maybe electrical in general, as some of your questions don't make sense.

EDIT

You are correct that originally, the switch was 36 volts for the cart, and 12 volts from two six volt batteries for lights, horn, etc. The switch doesn't care whether they are 36, 48 or 12 volts. There is an amperage limit, but the reducer trigger wire is low amperage, precisely for this reason. If you had purchased a reducer without the trigger, you would have had to use a relay, which allows low amperage to switch higher amperage devices.

[Sir Nuke]

Jake, I did exactly what you thought about as the second option and put a toggle switch between the pack and the reducer. whenever I need or want to use any of the accessories, I flip that switch and the reducer turns on....and use whatever I need/want. then turn it all off when I am done. I don't use many or any accessories most of the time, as I primarily use me cart during the daylight hours and rarely even turn on the radio (lots of short trips).

[JakeJones8]

My apologies if my questions were confusing, but I assure you I know what I am doing. This is my 8th rebuild but first EZGO and this F/R/N connection thing is abnormal because using the standard ignition isn't an option like all my other builds.

Yurtle - This is exactly what I was asking in question 1. All the diagrams out there show that position 3 of the key switch is for 12v in and out. Your example states I can do a second 36v in and then out to the reducer switch on wire, is this ok? (see pic below, sorry for the horrible drawing haha). My reducer goes to a marine grade fuse block already, then switches, then my accessories. This would be my preferred method as I could just turn the key to position 3 to give the reducer power and use my accessories.

Sir Nuke - I am assuming you put the switch on your switch-on wire and not the 36v+ wire? If I end up going this route and put a switch on the tan wire (switch wire) between the pack and the reducer, what should it be rated. Is 2a 36VDC enough?

Thanks guys!

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JakeJones8

this F/R/N connection thing is abnormal because using the standard ignition isn't an option like all my other builds.

I'm really confused now. I think we are on the same wavelength wrt the reducer. What are you talking about wrt the FNR?

[Imapled]

Is it a DCS cart? The DCS harness sucks. You can fix the shutting off in neutral though.

It has a two pole key ignition and F/R handle under the seat that kills all the power when in "N".

A DCS wire harness will kill the power in neutral.

See this thread where JohnnieB explains how to fix it:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1607792

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

With a little rewiring, you can get the controller to stay on as long as the keyswitch is tuned ON. Here is a schematic of how the 1206SX was wired.

On the original DCS 10 pin molex, you need B+ on Pins 6, 9 and 10 to keep controller powered up.

Cheers,
Impaled

[Sergio]

I am surprised You guys don't have a sticky about how to make the key switch on those EzGo work the way one would expect.

When I looked at the diagram one time it seems like a very straight forward modification.

Disconnect the two existing wires from the key switch and splice them together.

Run a new 14ga from pack positive (or another constant power source) to the key switch and connect to one side. That becomes Your "Hot Side" or "Always ON".

Run a 16ga wire from the other side of the key switch to the charger socket and either connect directly to the skinny wire (20ga?) from the harness or if You still use the reed switch, disconnect the reed switch from the radsock and connect that wire to the 16ga wire you ran from the key switch.

The key switch now still powers the Cart with interlock and the FNR still disables the cart in Neutral, but you also have a more robust Key Switch 'cold side' that powers other devices with out interruption.

[JakeJones8]

Originally Posted by yurtle

I'm really confused now. I think we are on the same wavelength wrt the reducer. What are you talking about wrt the FNR?

The cart currently has a 2 prong ignition switch (like the right side of the picture) with has the 36v in and out. However, because the power is going through the ignition AFTER the F/R switch (standard wiring) anything that is currently tapped into the ignition (ex. battery meter) gets quick shut off and on when the cart switches from F to R (because while the cart is in N nothing is touching on the F/R switch and the current is disconnected). HOWEVER, if you agree with my crappy picture I drew, this can all be fixed by switching to a 4 prong ignition because "B1" would be getting its 36v directly from the battery and not the F/R switch like "I" so it wont cycle on and off!

[JakeJones8]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Disconnect the two existing wires from the key switch and splice them together.

Sergio, splicing these wires together would mean someone could put my cart in "F" and drive off, no key needed?