2010 YDRE, bad solenoid or controller?

Acausing · 07-21-2019, 10:41 AM

Hello Everyone, Newbie here. Bought my first electric cart 2010 YDRE to compliment my gas one 2000 G16A. YDRE was a retired fleet cart from a local golf course. It is completely stock wheels, suspension, controller, motor etc.. It has 4 Trojan 1275’s. It worked fine for the first month and recently developed a problem that was intermittent and now seems permanent. It does not want to RUN!!.
Here is a quick sequence of events. Last week went to drive it and moved the tow switch to run and heard the solenoid “click” but was a little louder than normal, almost a bit of an arcing sound. Turned the key on switched it to reverse and it was fine. A couple days later went to use it again but this time it didn’t move. I switched it to reverse and the buzzer sounded like it had a bad connection or was losing power. Cycled the key and it was fine. Next day went to use it and nothing, let it sit for about an hour went back out and reverse buzzer worked so turned the key on heard a click with a small “arc” sound again. Doesnt click or even move

Today I started to diagnose the problem but my knowledge of electric carts is limited. I thought I narrowed it down to either the solenoid or controller but would appreciate any input on how to isolate the problem.
With the switch on “tow” used a multimeter and tested pack voltage and had 50.4v, tested Voltage on battery Side of the controller 50.4v, controller side of solenoid was 0. Moved the switch to run and retested both sides of the solenoid now only reading 15.0-15.4v which now leaves me stumped. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.

Kerusm · 07-21-2019, 11:23 AM

Jack the rear end up to get weight off and see if it does anything. The stock Hitachi motor is known to fail.

Acausing · 07-21-2019, 07:34 PM

Okay so I tried jacking up the rear and nothing happens. Open to any other suggestions. Thanks!

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TXWELDER · 07-21-2019, 10:37 PM

Do you have good signal from the controller to the solenoid? One is + and one is -. With a dvm on the hot side and ground to main pack neg when you push the pedal you should get voltage. Somebody correct me if I’m wrong.

cgtech · 07-23-2019, 10:02 AM

Not on Sepex Yamahas. The solenoid signal wires get positive whenever the tow/run switch is on. The negative is provided by the controller whenever it thinks the solenoid should be on.

TXWELDER · 07-24-2019, 02:10 PM

See, learning is constant.

Acausing · 07-24-2019, 11:00 PM

Is it normal to have the voltage drop down to 15v on both sides of the solenoid when the tow switch is moved to the run position?

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cgtech · 07-25-2019, 03:54 AM

That's a big problem.

Acausing · 07-25-2019, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgtech

That's a big problem.

Cgtech, I was hoping it was a bad solenoid but starting to suspect otherwise. my neighbor has the same cart I could borrow parts off of but dont want to just start swapping parts and risk burning them out or frying a circuit board. Thoughts?

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nickdalzell1 · 07-26-2019, 09:37 PM

We just fixed a gas car with a similar voltage drop at the solenoid (was 3.0-2.8 volts at the solenoid with pedal down, but battery was a good 12.7 volts) it ended up being a bad or leaky pedal group microswitch. A good test is to jack rear wheels off ground, remove floor mat, unplug the switch, and with car in RUN, and multimeter set to volts, at small terminals at the solenoid, jump the connection that is on the harness side of the microswitch, and it should read normal. if it drops again with switch reconnected you have a leaky switch.

Some early YDREs have what are known as 'Moric' controllers, which oddly enough for their year, used an ancient Palm Pilot to talk to the controller to program speed or diagnose faults. These tend to fail oftentimes randomly or completely. the fault will show multiple instances of 'field short circuit trip' but motor will ohm out normal. the rebuilt ones from FSIP don't talk to the Palm Pilot to diagnose future faults but tend to be far more reliable and seem to be programmed for 18 MPH.

07-21-2019, 10:41 AM	#1
Acausing Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Hopewell, NJ Posts: 68	2010 YDRE, bad solenoid or controller? Hello Everyone, Newbie here. Bought my first electric cart 2010 YDRE to compliment my gas one 2000 G16A. YDRE was a retired fleet cart from a local golf course. It is completely stock wheels, suspension, controller, motor etc.. It has 4 Trojan 1275’s. It worked fine for the first month and recently developed a problem that was intermittent and now seems permanent. It does not want to RUN!!. Here is a quick sequence of events. Last week went to drive it and moved the tow switch to run and heard the solenoid “click” but was a little louder than normal, almost a bit of an arcing sound. Turned the key on switched it to reverse and it was fine. A couple days later went to use it again but this time it didn’t move. I switched it to reverse and the buzzer sounded like it had a bad connection or was losing power. Cycled the key and it was fine. Next day went to use it and nothing, let it sit for about an hour went back out and reverse buzzer worked so turned the key on heard a click with a small “arc” sound again. Doesnt click or even move Today I started to diagnose the problem but my knowledge of electric carts is limited. I thought I narrowed it down to either the solenoid or controller but would appreciate any input on how to isolate the problem. With the switch on “tow” used a multimeter and tested pack voltage and had 50.4v, tested Voltage on battery Side of the controller 50.4v, controller side of solenoid was 0. Moved the switch to run and retested both sides of the solenoid now only reading 15.0-15.4v which now leaves me stumped. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.

07-21-2019, 11:23 AM	#2
Kerusm Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 124	Re: 2010 YDRE, bad solenoid or controller? Jack the rear end up to get weight off and see if it does anything. The stock Hitachi motor is known to fail.
Kerusm Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 124

07-21-2019, 07:34 PM	#3
Acausing Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Hopewell, NJ Posts: 68	Re: 2010 YDRE, bad solenoid or controller? Okay so I tried jacking up the rear and nothing happens. Open to any other suggestions. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

07-21-2019, 10:37 PM	#4
TXWELDER Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 198	Re: 2010 YDRE, bad solenoid or controller? Do you have good signal from the controller to the solenoid? One is + and one is -. With a dvm on the hot side and ground to main pack neg when you push the pedal you should get voltage. Somebody correct me if I’m wrong.
TXWELDER Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 198

07-23-2019, 10:02 AM	#5
cgtech Over This Interview Is... Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: AZ Posts: 17,449	Re: 2010 YDRE, bad solenoid or controller? Not on Sepex Yamahas. The solenoid signal wires get positive whenever the tow/run switch is on. The negative is provided by the controller whenever it thinks the solenoid should be on.

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07-24-2019, 02:10 PM	#6
TXWELDER Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 198	Re: 2010 YDRE, bad solenoid or controller? See, learning is constant.
TXWELDER Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 198

07-24-2019, 11:00 PM	#7
Acausing Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Hopewell, NJ Posts: 68	Re: 2010 YDRE, bad solenoid or controller? Is it normal to have the voltage drop down to 15v on both sides of the solenoid when the tow switch is moved to the run position? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

07-25-2019, 03:54 AM	#8
cgtech Over This Interview Is... Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: AZ Posts: 17,449	Re: 2010 YDRE, bad solenoid or controller? That's a big problem.

07-26-2019, 09:37 PM	#10
nickdalzell1 Resident Curmudgeon Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 1,279	Re: 2010 YDRE, bad solenoid or controller? We just fixed a gas car with a similar voltage drop at the solenoid (was 3.0-2.8 volts at the solenoid with pedal down, but battery was a good 12.7 volts) it ended up being a bad or leaky pedal group microswitch. A good test is to jack rear wheels off ground, remove floor mat, unplug the switch, and with car in RUN, and multimeter set to volts, at small terminals at the solenoid, jump the connection that is on the harness side of the microswitch, and it should read normal. if it drops again with switch reconnected you have a leaky switch. Some early YDREs have what are known as 'Moric' controllers, which oddly enough for their year, used an ancient Palm Pilot to talk to the controller to program speed or diagnose faults. These tend to fail oftentimes randomly or completely. the fault will show multiple instances of 'field short circuit trip' but motor will ohm out normal. the rebuilt ones from FSIP don't talk to the Palm Pilot to diagnose future faults but tend to be far more reliable and seem to be programmed for 18 MPH.

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