1992 DS Transmission

[yankee dog]

Long time lurker, seldom poster. Can usually find the answer by searching...

1992 CC DS, always runs, and runs great. No problems keeping up on the maintenance.

Late last year developed a leak at the seal behind the DRIVEN clutch. Replaced the seal and leak returns every time. Did this 3 times. Even tried different brands of seals. Seal surface is clean and smooth. Differential fluid gets on belt and throws it everywhere.

So this tells me there is play in the bearing behind the seal. It is definitely coming from the input shaft seal. Can't feel the play when I grab the shaft and try to move it but not much else that it can be.

So I plan on pulling transmission this weekend to inspect and will post my results. BTW, this is the trans that is the separate removable unit with the hidden cover and gasket.

Any "gotchas" or other heads up/warnings when removing or taking apart? I have a factory manual and have read it a few times. Don't seem to scary, just never been in there before.

I have a press for the bearing, and a pretty good set up for tools. I am a mechanic in my spare time and do all my own maintenance and repairs for my vehicles. Even have a few car and motorcycle restorations (complete restos engine and body) under my belt. So should be OK.

As mentioned just never been in it before... thanks

[Fairtax4me]

Should be pretty straight forward. I can't think of any real "gotcha" things. Only time I had one of those apart the gears were trashed inside so it didn't go back together, but there wasn't anything I remember that was tricky about getting it opened.

It is very important to use good seals on these. If it's a china made seal or the wrong size or type you will have repeat problems. Make sure you get an OEM Kawasaki seal from a dealer or Kawasaki parts. I think they normally used NOK or NTN brand seals, so you could also order one of those brands by size and type if you match it to the original seal.

Also there should be a vent cap on top of the case. Give that a blast with some cleaner and make sure it's not blocked with grease and dirt.

[yankee dog]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Should be pretty straight forward. I can't think of any real "gotcha" things. Only time I had one of those apart the gears were trashed inside so it didn't go back together, but there wasn't anything I remember that was tricky about getting it opened.

It is very important to use good seals on these. If it's a china made seal or the wrong size or type you will have repeat problems. Make sure you get an OEM Kawasaki seal from a dealer or Kawasaki parts. I think they normally used NOK or NTN brand seals, so you could also order one of those brands by size and type if you match it to the original seal.

Also there should be a vent cap on top of the case. Give that a blast with some cleaner and make sure it's not blocked with grease and dirt.

Yes, thanks, third try was an OEM seal with no luck.

Thanks on the vents. That was the first thing I tried with no luck. Flushed it with brake clean, and even blew through it. Was hoping for a hail mary.

Gears have never given me any trouble. It's old, but runs great. No issues other than the leak and of course now everything under there is covered in diff fluid, and it gets driven on dirt roads, so I have been cleaning the engine compartment for the past three days.

I also hate the smell of diff fluid... YD

[Fairtax4me]

Gear oil and ATF are the worst, especially when they get burned.

[yankee dog]

Ended up pulling the rear section of the body to give me more room and had to do more deep cleaning and degreasing. That diff fluid was everywhere. Mix in road dust and it makes for a really fun afternoon cleaning it all off. If you see in the pic below the rubber matt under the engine is coated/soaked. I am thinking about just removing it. I plan on just ripping it out in pieces and throwing it away. I think it is just for sound control?

The trans removal was easier than I thought, but I did manage break the hook on the metal spring for the throttle cable at the governor arm when I was trying to disconnect it. Guess I did not know the trick. Did not take much to break it. Should have referred to the manual, I see a clip needs to be removed first.
[IMG]IMG_2784 by kd460, on Flickr[/IMG]


The trans was stuck in there pretty good, but I just kept tapping with a wooden dowel on certain areas and dead blow all around the solid parts and it finally broke free.

Bearings (6205 c3 bearings) do have play with the worst one being the input shaft (as suspected). That one looks like the easiest to press off and back on. Need to read up on how to properly remove the other two on the main cluster. A quick read shows the use of .100 thick metal flat bars to remove the bearings on the main cluster.

One problem I discovered is the splined shaft that the transmission fits onto has some significant wear. About 1/4 of each spline is worn. Need to look at whats involved with that repair, but I am thinking of leaving it for the summer then going back in over the winter. Have not decided for sure.

[IMG]IMG_2787 by kd460, on Flickr[/IMG]

Anyways, now I am just waiting for the new gasket and bearings to arrive. In the meantime just cleaning and inspecting. Gears really look surprisingly good. YD

[yankee dog]

Old 6205 bearings removed and new ones pressed back in. With the press it was not too hard to difficult. Gasket arrived today, but seals did not/.

Transmission is all back together so once the seals arrive I will get it back into the cart.

BTW, did a little homework and the following part numbers are an option (besides the OEM seal #1012714):

It is a double lip 25x40x8 mm seal. You need two for the transmission. One on the input shaft (behind the driven clutch) and one that can only be accessed when the transmission is removed and that one seals the output shaft that goes from the transmission to the rear differential.

Cross reference:

Honda #91261-415-003
Yamaha #93102-25061
Yamaha #93103-25098
Kawasaki #92049-Y010
Suzuki 09283-25054
National or Timken #710316

[KRAZYMATT]

Originally Posted by yankee dog

Old 6205 bearings removed and new ones pressed back in. With the press it was not too hard to difficult. Gasket arrived today, but seals did not/.

Transmission is all back together so once the seals arrive I will get it back into the cart.

BTW, did a little homework and the following part numbers are an option (besides the OEM seal #1012714):

It is a double lip 25x40x8 mm seal. You need two for the transmission. One on the input shaft (behind the driven clutch) and one that can only be accessed when the transmission is removed and that one seals the output shaft that goes from the transmission to the rear differential.

Cross reference:

Honda #91261-415-003
Yamaha #93102-25061
Yamaha #93103-25098
Kawasaki #92049-Y010
Suzuki 09283-25054
National or Timken #710316

Yes when I just had mine open (1991) I replaced the 2 seals with Timkin #710316.

[yankee dog]

All back together and is running well. No more leak and everything seems to be functioning as it should. Knock on wood. YD

[Fairtax4me]

One problem I discovered is the splined shaft that the transmission fits onto has some significant wear. About 1/4 of each spline is worn. Need to look at whats involved with that repair, but I am thinking of leaving it for the summer then going back in over the winter. Have not decided for sure.

Most likely just wear from some rust/dirt being in there over the last 28years of operation. I’d put some grease in there and leave it. Not gonna wear out the rest of the way anytime soon.

[yankee dog]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Most likely just wear from some rust/dirt being in there over the last 28years of operation. I’d put some grease in there and leave it. Not gonna wear out the rest of the way anytime soon.

Thanks, that is exactly what I ended up doing. YD