2014 gas precedent lights blowing fuse

[DaveR]

20 amp fuse is blowing but not initially. Cart will run for 30 min or more before fuse blows. If you replace fuse It will blow immediately when you turn lights on. Cart runs fine. Fuse comes off blue wire attached to solenoid. I only added turn signal and brake light kit.

[CatCam]

Are these lights factory installed or aftermarket?

[DaveR]

I’m not sure. Looks like aftermarket.

[nickdalzell1]

Did you ground them to the frame? I don't know why but that has blown fuses (usually blows the main fuse not the one for the light kit) in my experience. If your light kit has a blue or red LED on the switch that comes on when the lights are on, sometimes they get shorted internally and insta-blow the light kit fuse when used.

[CP241]

Do they have a cheesy switch with the bright blue LED light that turns on when you turn the lights on? If so I’d replace it with a more robust pull-out style switch. Those lighted ones are junk and it may be vibrations causing it to blow the fuse.

When you’re diagnosing something like that, it can be tricky if it’s intermittent and takes time before the fuse blows. But you can unplug one component at a time and drive it and try to get it to fail. When you unplug something and the fuse stops blowing, you know you’ve found the faulty component. If nothing being unplugged makes a difference then you probably have a harness rubbing on the frame somewhere.

There are probably 3 wires behind the switch. One just makes the led turn on. The other 2 are the switches wires themselves. Simply connecting them together will bypass the switch so you can have the lights turned on with the switch unplugged and eliminate that. However *which* wires do what in your cart you will have to verify. I’ve got absolutely no idea what kit you have so it’s impossible to say specifics. But one wire should go to the battery, one wire should be ground, and the 3rd wire will go out to the lights to turn them on. You want to connect the battery wire to the output wire and the switch is bypassed.

[nickdalzell1]

On switches with LED lights inside them, the wire that makes the LED work is black, and is tied to the negative battery terminal via the harness in the light kit. It's just a ground. The other two, red and blue, are the switch. I usually just yank the black wire off the switch and avoid the use of the LED (many are shorted out of the box anyway)