2004 ez go 295 runs great then will completely stall out

[Canucgolfer]

Just for further info the cart is not lifted. The carbon on the plugs are not super heavy I'll have to check the hoses from the crank. have never seen any leaking oil either. I thought it might be a vacuum issue not pulling enough gas. all great pointers. The screw that I have on the top of the carb does have a plastic cap but i don't believe it can rotate all the may around as it also has what seems to be a plastic pointer. I can turn this just with my fingers all the way to the right or left, so I may be talking about something different. I do recall before putting a hand over the air intake through the air breather and the cart firing right up. This was last year and it just dawned on me now. Could that indicate something in particular?

[newtjl]

That plastic pointer looking cap should pop off to reveal the mixture screw. It sounds like you were manually choking the cart if you put your hand over the intake. That is what your choke does. So when the cart dies, will it immediately start if you give it choke?
If so, Id say the carb is dirty.

[Canucgolfer]

No cart doesn't go after it is choked. Will sometimes go if we swap the plugs. I keep a piece of emery cloth in the cart and swap them out as needed. It sucks tho as it seems the older plugs that have been switched up multiple times don't always work. I'm just really annoyed with the whole situation. Like I said sometimes it runs brilliant for 36 holes on a new set of plugs, then blah dead. To me I think it's got to me a fuel supply issue, I just do t know how to tune to give it more fuel or test if the fuel supply is intermittent. By the way that you all for your input.

[newtjl]

I have long tried to figure out a good way to check fuel pumps. These pumps are low pressure and it doesnt take much to keep the bowl full on the carb so its just hard to say whether or not a fuel pump is pumping enough just by looking at its output. They just basically "spit" fuel into the carb in pulses. The good news is that you can probably repair it with very little money and time. If you brought it to me for repair, I would do this...
1. Clean the carb. Remove it and soak it in carb cleaner and blow out the main jet with carb cleaner, then compressed air.
2. Replace the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel lines. (Maybe $50 dollar investment and an hour of labor)

If you are still starving for fuel, crankcase pressure would be the next logical step.

I had an old feller brink in an old G1 a couple of weeks ago that was laying down on him on the 8th hole every round, then would only run a few feet at a time back to the clubhouse. I tried a coil and a plug first with no luck (it had the original coil still on it).
I tried a fuel pump next and that seemed to do the trick. I drove it around for half an hour non stop, and I havent heard back from the owner who plays lots of golf so Id call it good. I suspect the pump was old and the crankcase pressure was dropping off as his round progressed, starving the antique golf car of fuel. The fresh pump is likely dealing with the reduced crankcase pressure better than the old one.

[Canucgolfer]

So did some testing. Pulled the hose of the crank and turned to cart over. Can feel the air coming our of the spout. Pulled the hose off the fuel pump where it goes into the carb and a pretty steady stream of gas comes out. Checked the air box and dry as a bone. Try to turn the cart over and it won't start. Turning it over full choke. After 15-20 seconds I check the plugs. One side is wet and the other dry. I'm thinking valve adjustment but I don't have the tools. Will buy feeler gauge tomorrow probably. Now back to the carb. Pic to follow. The plastic piece on the top does not come off and has a limited for how far you can turn it. One on the driver side and one on the passenger side. Not entirely sure what this adjustment does but I've moved it all over the place. Please excuse the dusty carb. I attached the pic. Sure hope it's there once I and this reply

[newtjl]

Ok, yes I see what you mean now. I am getting confused on my carbs. Id set the valves and clean the carb. I wouldnt adjust it for now. Sounds like you have plenty of crankcase pressure. You can adjust the main jet and the pilot jet on that carb but I doubt that is the problem. Id try the other things first so you dont get the carb out of whack. Here is your manual....http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/605586.pdf

[Canucgolfer]

Perfect thank you. Thanks so much for manual. So what do you think the plastic adjustment screw is for?

[Cartmaster]

There are a couple of points need to be made here. These carbs do not have adjustable jets, just replaceable, they are pretty much pre set. You will find the adjuster mentioned previously does not affect the running of the engine and it clearly states in the manual NOT to tamper with it. The other screw on the side of the carb adjusts the idle stop for the butterfly and due to the way these engines work, do basically nothing regardless of what the manual says about adjusting it. You can safely remove it completely and file it under trash.
Your issue is most likely to be a blocked jet or drilling in the carb body, and needs a thorough clean, preferably in a sonic cleaning tank. The other possible cause of your problems is valve wear, one statement says the valves have been adjusted several times and another states lack of tools to do so. You do not need feeler gauges to do this for getting the engine to run. Simply remove the valve cover and look at all four rockers. Are the middle two adjusters showing a lot more thread than the outer two?. If so the inlet valves (the middle two) are sinking into the head due to valve wear and will need replacing. You can set the valve lash without feeler gauges by simply loosening the locknut and using a sutable screwdriver, turn the adjuster in until it contacts the heel of the cam lobe and then undo 1/4 turn. this will give you a 4 to 5 thou gap. good enough for testing and running the engine. If you find you are needing to adjust the valves regularly it is definitely a case of needing new valves. This will also give you smokey exhaust fumes as the leaking valve allows induction pressure into the crankcase and forces oil vapours up through the PCV valve and into the air filter box. thus causing smoke from burning oil.
Can you remove the valve cover ( 6 x 10mm screws ) and take some pictures of the lash adjusters to confirm possible valve issues.

[trig123]

Cartmaster knows what he is talking about so listen to him on this issue. Please take his advise if you want your cart to run again

[Canucgolfer]

Just brought the cart home from the course so will probably tackle that tomorrow. Tried to start the cart to loat it in my truck with no success. Put a new set of plugs in it and it fired right away. What would kill the old plugs like that? Well plugs are really not that old. From this year. Anyway my sone took it for a spin around the block and it died again with the new plugs. Carb cleaning tomorrow and see what the valves look like. I am getting ready to punch this cart right in the face