Almost new cables, melting problems

[wildbillw]

Nowhere in this thread is the year of the CC being discussed. In my '86 CC the windings in the motor are aluminum (as opposed to copper). This same thing happened to me a while back. Due to a loose connection I burned the end of the aluminum winding from the terminal stud. I brought it to a motor shop and they re-terminated all four studs by crimping a short piece of copper to the aluminum winding and then attaching the stud to the copper. They also cleaned and turned the armature and charged me about $125 (if I remember correctly). I thought it beat buying a new motor. This was a year or more ago and it's still working. (This is on a 5 solenoid powered "antique" because I'm too cheap to upgrade.)

[GLEEMO]

Originally Posted by wildbillw

Nowhere in this thread is the year of the CC being discussed. In my '86 CC the windings in the motor are aluminum (as opposed to copper). This same thing happened to me a while back. Due to a loose connection I burned the end of the aluminum winding from the terminal stud. I brought it to a motor shop and they re-terminated all four studs by crimping a short piece of copper to the aluminum winding and then attaching the stud to the copper. They also cleaned and turned the armature and charged me about $125 (if I remember correctly). I thought it beat buying a new motor. This was a year or more ago and it's still working. (This is on a 5 solenoid powered "antique" because I'm too cheap to upgrade.)

[crash12888]

Actually, post 8 states it is a Regen cart.

"I learned after trying to put them on I have a regen cart, that is why I have extra cables."

[GLEEMO]

Dang crash , kudos for reading and comprehending entire post

[mustangless]

Got around to look at it today. The inside bolt (close to motor) was tight and rusted. I thought about taking it off and putting a new one on, but the entire bolt and stud were turning.

Is it supposed to both turn? I am thinking about putting a new cable on and make sure it is all snug. If it does it again, I will pull the motor.

PQ Bandit is tempting now. Researching about it without new controller.

[GLEEMO]

This is why U need 2 wrenches , one holds the inside stud in place the other loosens the outside bolt.
If U did not do this when U upgrades the cables , I'm surprise U have not broken the internal wiring.

[mustangless]

Originally Posted by GLEEMO

This is why U need 2 wrenches , one holds the inside stud in place the other loosens the outside bolt.
If U did not do this when U upgrades the cables , I'm surprise U have not broken the internal wiring.

I am going to say the motor had problems on the inside, only because I have now messed up the outside bolt (was tight until I broke it lose on purpose like a noob).

I was attempting to hook it back up, but could not get the cable hooked to the controller without touching the top cable throwing sparks. Yes, key off and on the tow position. Hope I did not fry my controller too, because I am about to order the Bandit.

[scottyb]

I hate to hear when this happens. I can't say it enough so I will say again for anybody reading this ~ Always disconnect a battery main cable first and reconnect it last. There is enough amperage present in a battery pack to weld with. Be careful for yourself and your electronics.

[mustangless]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I hate to hear when this happens. I can't say it enough so I will say again for anybody reading this ~ Always disconnect a battery main cable first and reconnect it last. There is enough amperage present in a battery pack to weld with. Be careful for yourself and your electronics.

I feel like such a noob doing it. I always thought tow switch killed all power.

Is there a way I can test it? Cart buzzes in reverse and clicks when the go pedal is pushed, but does not move. Of course, since I messed up the bolt on the motor, it is not tight. Hope that is the reason it does not move.

[GLEEMO]

Disconnect the "-" battery on the last battery "fail safe"