D&D PDS High Speed Motor and 8:1 High Speed Gear Experiment...

[Gonkulor]

Right on. I don't have a "Guy", other than you all, like you do Terry. So if your OK with it I'll be OK with it. to Bob

[TerryH]

Originally Posted by Gonkulor

Right on. I don't have a "Guy", other than you all, like you do Terry. So if your OK with it I'll be OK with it. to Bob

That settle it then. We'll go with what Bob says and blame him if it doesn't work.

[wrongway]

What about BOB!

[Coltf1991]

Hahahahahaha

I like blaming Bob.

[TerryH]

Originally Posted by Coltf1991

Hahahahahaha

I like blaming Bob.

Me to.

Heading out to the shop in a bit. Hopefully a complete high speed gear rear end...with photos....later tonite.

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by Coltf1991

Hahahahahaha

I like blaming Bob.

In some garages "Bob" is code for something else. He gets blamed for all sorts of things....

Best of luck, Terry

[Coltf1991]

That is so true G!

[Coltf1991]

Terry, you better have pictures tonight. Not an option grandpa.

[TerryH]

And here we go on the reassembly............

The bearings that I bought are all closed bearings. The original bearings were a mixture of closed and open so I simply remove the plastic inserts where necessary and expose the bearing surfaces so the oil in the rear end can lubricate the bearings as they did originally.

Here's how the bearings came.......



And here's the bearings with the plastic inserts removed. These might be OK if you were to leave them sealed but I feel better about removing the seals so they are like the ones that came out of the rear end.



First order of business is to install the intermediate shaft. We begin by installing the orings into the inner groove on each side of the case.



These bearings require the inner seal to be removed from the bearing leaving the outer seal in tact.

The bearings slide into the housing with the sealed side out but are a very snug fit. I use a dab of lithium grease on the housing to help get this all together. I use my plastic dead blow hammer to convince them into the housing beginning with partially inserting one side, then inserting the shaft into the holes and then installing the bearing on the other side. If you put the first bearing all the way into the housing, you will not be able to get the shaft in. You have to do it all at the same time. It is not difficult but takes a bit of patience to get it all together.

Make sure that the large gear is toward the inboard side of the housing (closest to where the motor bolts up) so it will mate up with the input gear. Drive the bearings in just past the outer groove with the handle of the hammer and install the snap rings into the grooves to secure the bearings and the shaft.



Should look like this when it's all together.



The gently tap the new plugs into the holes with the dead blow until they are flush with the housing. This completes the installation of the intermediate shaft.



The carrier bearings require the seals to be removed from both sides. The bearings just slide onto the shaft with a tap or 2 from the dead blow.





Reinstall the bearing caps in the same orientation that they come out and tighten the bolts finger tight and make sure that the gears mesh together and that everything spins freely. These bolts need to be torqued to 40 psi. I like to tighten them little by little moving from bolt to bolt until the torque wrench indicates that I'm on 40 psi and then go back over all the bolts a couple of times to make sure that all the bolts are torqued exactly the same.

Here's Joe installing the bearing caps.



And here is everything all torqued to specs and ready to rock.



More in the next post....

[TerryH]

We move onto installing the axles by first installing the axle seals. I bought these axle bearing kits from EZGO. They have the bearing, seal and new snap rings all in one package. The open part of the seal goes toward the inside and I drive the seals in past the inner groove inside the housing with the dead blow and a 1 1/8" deep socket. The only trick here is to make sure that the seal is square in the housing and that it's in past the inner groove a little bit so the seal will ride properly on the machined sealing area of the axle.



Then install one of the snap rings into the inner groove. This snap ring limits the inward travel of the axle and bearing assembly.



The new axle bearings will have to be driven onto the axle. I basically reverse the procedure at the bench vise that I used to get the old bearings off the axle. Slide the new bearing onto the shaft and place the axle and bearing on the top of the vise and tap on the end of the axle with a hammer and block of wood or with a plastic dead blow so as not to damage the end of the axle. Make sure to drive the bearing all the way flush against the flange on the axle.



It should look like this when you are done.



Then lube the axle shaft with a bit of oil and carefully slide the axle into the seal and into the spider gear in the carrier. Once the bearing comes in contact with the outer edge of the housing you'll have to use the dead blow to get it all the way in against the inner snap ring. Then we install the outer snap ring and repeat the whole procedure for the other side.



The next step is to install the input shaft. We begin by installing the oring in the inner groove in the housing just like the intermediate shaft openings.



Another little dab of grease around this opening helps get the input shaft in. You might have to tap it with the dead blow but this one slid right in. Then install the snap ring and the input shaft is installed.



Next is to install the cover. There is no gasket here, just use RTV silicone to form the seal.



I bought all stainless button heads to hold the pan so I'm careful to put some anti-seeze compound on these so they don't gaul up in the threads in the housing.



And that is pretty much it. I now have a newly rebuilt Dana rear end with 8:1 gears. I'll let the RTV dry over night and then I'll put 30w oil in the rear end, secure the plug and install the rear end in the cart.