Dead Cart, Help Diagnose based on this...

[gregaustex]

Great thanks! Will start by replacing the solenoid.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Definitely solenoid. It's possible for them to click - coil - but not function - contacts. Visibly inspect for loose or missing cable, but jumping as noted above will tell you.

I should have worded it better, but a problem in/around the solenoid doesn't mean it's definitely bad. Unlikely, but you are bypassing two cables, four cable connections, and a solenoid. I'd still do a visible check, and maybe bypass to be 100%.

In case you missed it, I have a HD solenoid for free in the for sale section. Just pay shipping. It's only got around one year or so, before I upgraded to 48 volts. I melted two stock solenoids by abusing them.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/golf-...arts-free.html

One other place to be aware of is your forward/neutral/reverse FNR switch. They aren't designed to be abused, so you should monitor it after an abuse session for excess heat in the four studs where the cables land. There's just one screw to remove the cover, then you can simply lick your finger and quickly touch each one. If any show signs of excess heat, such as discoloration, replace with a HD one.

[gregaustex]

OK thank you.

I will check all of the connections and if that doesn't work take you up on the solenoid!

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by gregaustex

OK thank you.

I will check all of the connections and if that doesn't work take you up on the solenoid!

PM me your name and address and I'll ship it. If you don't need the bracket, it might save a few bucks, but I'm happy to mail either way.

Just click on my name to the left of the post, and you'll get the option to PM.

[yurtle]

Solenoid shipped. Keep us updated.

[gregaustex]

Thanks! I jumped around it and the cart worked so I think that's going to do the trick.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by gregaustex

Thanks! I jumped around it and the cart worked so I think that's going to do the trick.

This should take abuse far better than stock. Mine died right before a 4th of July parade, so I "rebuilt" mine while waiting for a replacement. I bought a used stock one, which also died, so used the rebuilt one until ScottB came through.

I removed the resistor for shipping. Make sure you don't overlook it.

[gregaustex]

Thanks!

So now I'm curious.

I thought the purpose of a solenoid switch was to allow a low current switch circuit to turn a high current on and off.

Seems in this case the low current switch is the pedal? Does this mean in my jumper test the circuit going to the pedal was 36V, but this is not normally the case?

Or is this thing just attached to the key?

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by gregaustex

Thanks!

So now I'm curious.

I thought the purpose of a solenoid switch was to allow a low current switch circuit to turn a high current on and off.

Seems in this case the low current switch is the pedal? Does this mean in my jumper test the circuit going to the pedal was 36V, but this is not normally the case?

Or is this thing just attached to the key?

The small terminals on the solenoid are the coil. It sees full pack voltage, but low current. You are correct, a solenoid in this case is to allow the use of small reed switch, two microswitches on the FNR, key switch, and throttle microswitch, which allow the 36 volt circuit to close or turn on the solenoid.

From the picture, you can see there is a coil, which pulls the iron slug inside it. That also pulls the copper ring into the two large copper contacts. Once that happens, the controller uses Pulse Width Modulation or PWM to control the motor's speed. The term series is used for our drive type, which means the rotor and stator coils are connected in series. However, both the low amperage and high amperage circuits are numerous components connected in series. The FNR simply reverses the rotor's and stator's relationship with each other.

Anyway, the stock controller is rated at 275 amps. The solenoid is really designed to carry two fat golfers and their golf clubs from hole to hole, with time between for things to cool down. Mine has a rear seat, so you and me both ran our solenoids outside their design parameters - we got our money's worth.

In case I didn't answer your question. Your bypass simply bypassed the high amperage solenoid contacts. Nothing you did affected the low current circuit. And you are pretty lucky nothing smoked. As long as you just held it very briefly, I guess the motor might take a shorted rotor without the stator, of vice versa.

As to what failed in my solenoid, and I suspect yours as well, is the contacts were passing more current, for a longer period of time, than they were designed for. Current through any conductor with resistance causes heat. The more the resistance, the more heat. Heat in Watts equals current (I) squared times resistance (R). So you see heat increases to the current squared. With adequately sized and designed components, the heat loss is minimal and can be tolerated for the amount of time it's on before it's off - duty cycle. Excess heat with no time to cool off softened the plastic, which loosened up the contacts, which caused more resistance, which... Now you have a robust solenoid.

[gregaustex]

Perfect thanks. Should be good to go soon!