1999 EZ-GO XI875 won't run

[ethanc]

Hello all, I have a 1999 EZ-GO XI875 that won't run no matter what I try. It is a 36V car and I have 38.8V on the battery pack. I had an Alltrax SR 48500 controller put on about a year ago by a local shop.

I thought the solenoid may be bad as there was no continuity between the two small leads and there was full voltage on both of the big leads. I couldn't seem to find a way to make the solenoid click off. I ordered a new one and replaced with a 200A solenoid but I still have full voltage on both of the big leads of the solenoid. I still can't seem to get it to click on/off.

The hair I haven't pulled out yet is quickly turning gray over this one, any help that you could provide would be very appreciated!

[noxin]

What is an XI875? Since you have the Alltrax SR 48500 (as do I), I assume it's a series drive?

[ethanc]

Yes, it is a series drive. The forum won't let me post a hyperlink since I am a new member, but a quick search of "EZGO XI875" on google images will bring it up.

[bronsonj]

Did it work after the local shop put in the controller? Was there any recent changes that preceded the issue?

If you have the pre-charge resistor on there then you would have almost full pack voltage on both sides of the controller, right?

If you are not getting a solenoid click then that sounds like your primary issue. So you'd need to check the low voltage circuits to see that the key switch voltage and the throttle signal are all working as expected. But I am not familiar with your specific type of cart.

[cgtech]

What did it tell you when you plugged your laptop to it? It will tell you what's missing. Just about any "ibm compatible" computer on Earth can do it, pretty sure it still works even on windows XP. (Sorry windows 3.1 fans). No apple support, so the only apple desktop I ever had supposedly can't do it (apple 2c)

[ethanc]

Originally Posted by bronsonj

Did it work after the local shop put in the controller? Was there any recent changes that preceded the issue?

If you have the pre-charge resistor on there then you would have almost full pack voltage on both sides of the controller, right?

If you are not getting a solenoid click then that sounds like your primary issue. So you'd need to check the low voltage circuits to see that the key switch voltage and the throttle signal are all working as expected. But I am not familiar with your specific type of cart.

Yes, it worked great after the shop did their work. That's been about 2 years ago now. It died while driving it about a week or two ago. I had not done any sort of modifications prior to it quitting. I do have a pre-charge resistor on it, and I did have almost full voltage on both sides. Is it normally 36v power through the key switch? mine seems to be somewhere around 4-6v when I check with a multimeter.

Originally Posted by cgtech

What did it tell you when you plugged your laptop to it? It will tell you what's missing. Just about any "ibm compatible" computer on Earth can do it, pretty sure it still works even on windows XP. (Sorry windows 3.1 fans). No apple support, so the only apple desktop I ever had supposedly can't do it (apple 2c)

I pulled the controller and hooked it up to my desktop computer with the Alltrax program and couldn't find any error codes listed. Do I need to hook it up while it is on the cart? I can grab a laptop and do that if needed. I can't seem to get an LED code on the controller when hooked to the cart, but when I hooked it to my computer it would blink green.

Update:

I hooked a laptop up to my controller and it gave me a High Throttle Input Under-range & Low Throttle Input Under-range error code. I'm assuming that this means the ITS needs to be replaced.

[JohnnieB]

I believe the first thing is to get the solenoid clicking on when pedal is pushed and clicking off when pedal is released.

You mentioned you only had 4-6V at the keyswitch, so check the voltage on the smallest of the three wires coming out of th backside of the charge receptacle. It ought to be 38.2 or so when battery is fully charged. If it isn't bypass the reed switch.

[ethanc]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

I believe the first thing is to get the solenoid clicking on when pedal is pushed and clicking off when pedal is released.

You mentioned you only had 4-6V at the keyswitch, so check the voltage on the smallest of the three wires coming out of th backside of the charge receptacle. It ought to be 38.2 or so when battery is fully charged. If it isn't bypass the reed switch.

Ok, I have the key switch issue solved. I have an aftermarket QuiQ charger, I did some googling about the reed switch and can't seem to find one on my cart. I think it has already been removed. The clicking mechanism on the foot switch had gone out, so I jumped it across until the new switch arrives so that I can continue to troubleshoot. I show 39.0v on the line from the foot switch to the solenoid. I still cannot get the solenoid to click. The negative lead on the solenoid activation circuit plugs into the - SOL spot on the controller (J1 on the Alltrax SR 48500). I show 38.7v on the negative (black) wire from the controller.

Does this mean a bad controller? The solenoid is brand new, I took it apart and hooked both small leads to the battery pack and it actuates and shows continuity between the big leads like it should.

Thanks to all for the help with this, I hope my ignorance is not too maddening

[JohnnieB]

The solenoid's small terminal with the wire from the pedal switch on it should have another wire on it that goes to the KSI terminal in J1 on the SR.

You mentioned the SR not flashing any error codes when the laptop is not connected. The SR doesn't power up until there is battery pack voltage (~38V) on the KSI terminal, so if the pack voltage isn't getting there, the controller is not being powered up and cannot supply B- to make solenoid click.

-----------
Alternate test, connect laptop to SR and when there is the 39V on the solenoid coil (small terminals), look at monitor screen and see if Key Switch is True (1) or False (0).

[ethanc]

Sorry for not specifying, the wire to the KSI is on the same terminal with the wire from the pedal switch. The blue reverse wire is also hooked up to the J1 Terminal coming from the backup alarm. I have a screenshot of the diagnostics box with the error codes, I will try to attach a link to the photo. The keyswitch input box is checked.

https://imgur.com/pBLGsll