Curtis 1520-5501 Sepex not Powering Key Switch Up

[IslandCart]

I have a Curtis 1520-5501 on a 6 Passenger Club Car DS. The controller is not powering up the Key Switch or Solenoid. I can run a jumper wire straight from the Battery Side of the Solenoid to the Light Blue Wire going to the Key Switch and get the Power at the Key Switch. However, the controller is not powering up and allowing the Solenoid to come in. Im not very familiar with this Controller and would appreciate any help. I had this problem previously and sent the controller off to be rebuilt thinking that it was not providing the power needed back to the ignition switch. After a fresh rebuild on the controller I am getting the same response. Help Please!

[R&TBabich]

Originally Posted by IslandCart

I have a Curtis 1520-5501 on a 6 Passenger Club Car DS. The controller is not powering up the Key Switch or Solenoid. I can run a jumper wire straight from the Battery Side of the Solenoid to the Light Blue Wire going to the Key Switch and get the Power at the Key Switch. However, the controller is not powering up and allowing the Solenoid to come in. ....

What year cart?
I think from the Curtis part no. it is a sepex controller.
From drawings I found it looks similar in function to my 2003.
The Key switch gets power from the Tow/Run switch, not the controller.
One of the inputs to the controller is from the Key switch (Tan) telling the controller the Key switch is On.
There are other inputs needed by the controller before the controller will activate the solenoid.
The controller activates the solenoid by grounding the Blue/White wire.
The power for the solenoid activation coil comes from the Light Blue.
The Key switch gets power from the Tow/Run switch Green, which goes out the Blue when On and is spliced into a Tan to the controller, Blue to the Foot switch and Light Blue to the solenoid.
The Foot switch is the last input needed by the controller to activate the solenoid.
Are you getting B+ voltage from the Tow/Run switch to the Key switch?
There is a sonic weld in that line that you could check.

[IslandCart]

Thank you. The problem is solved. Upon tracing the wiring harness a little more detailed we found a break in a wire from the key switch due to corrosion. I believe this was at the sonic weld location. I appreciate your help and reply!