Workhorse and MPT...I have my work cut out for me

[CP241]

I’ve had several carryalls. And workhorses too for that matter. Always kept a carryall around when I lived on the farm. I brought one carryall up to Michigan with me when I moved, and then traded it for the DS. DS just makes more sense in a neighborhood. And it’s electric too. Double whammy I think this is the first time I’ve had to haul anything with it, and it didn’t go far. Just around to the front yard. I just didn’t feel like making more than one trip

I don’t believe timing should be an issue as it’s not really adjustable. If valves are good then I’d bet carb as well.

[JPonLKN]

Will it run at all with the timing off, even a tooth? This thing is clearly a rebuilt engine that was running since it was rebuilt, covered in oil, which I think was a failed input shaft at the transaxle. The machine I pulled the motor from was a mess and clearly had a bad seal...the seal had completely fallen out of the race. Good compression from the engine. No idea on whether the old transaxle was free or locked up. The fact that the engine has good compression and appeared to not be the cause of the demise of the prior machine, I didn't expect timing to be an issue, so I never pulled the cover when I had it on the bench.

I have to admit, it is a cheapo carb, but for a machine that I won't be keeping and I won't be selling, I just want it running and driving.

How do I get a stuck brass jet out of the carb? Every time I run into one like this, I booger it up. I have another jet to put in, so that isn't an issue, just don't have another carb laying around that isn't already in use that I can put on it for good. I have EZOUTs, but I have never been able to get one to work, not to mention not being able to get all the shavings out of the carb when done.

[CP241]

Best bet fir getting a stuck jet out is heat and patience. Make sure to take anything rubber or plastic off the carb first! I’d strip it down all the way. Then try. Try to alternate tightening and loosening to break it free. Once you get it broken loose you should be able to work it out. Not fun nor quick.

[Cartmaster]

Also, as it is brass, make sure the tool is a perfect fit in the slot. Even if you have to grind a slightly thicker driver to fit. And make sure to grind parallel not a taper or it will slip and damage the slot.

[JPonLKN]

Well, it isn't the carb. I pulled the carb and put it on my good machine, fired right up and ran decently. First time needed a bit of choke which is normal for Pre-MCI engine, second time, none at all. I'm not gonna mess with that carb any further at this point.

Not sure what I was smoking when I adjusted the valve lash last time...they were off. I adjusted them again and using the carb from my good machine which runs perfectly, could get it to start and run, but terribly. Incredibly rich. Lots of white smoke, not oily smelling, just strong exhaust smell. Pulled the plug and it was wet and black. I know I tested the coil, but I am going to do that again...maybe it isn't firing hot enough. I've already tried swapping plugs, and have the plugs from the good machine in there from a prior experiment.

Headed in the right direction though. Link to video of it running below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuIlwxHaho8

First run, choke on only for start, second start was without choke, it needed some choke to start and bobbled a bunch. I pulled the plug after this and it was wet and sooty.

[CP241]

It sounds like once it gets running and revs up, it runs pretty decently. I’d check the carb linkage/cable and governor.

That’s a helluva lot of smoke. You sure it’s not overfilled with oil?

Just to make sure, are you using NGK plugs?

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by CP241

It sounds like once it gets running and revs up, it runs pretty decently. I’d check the carb linkage/cable and governor.

That’s a helluva lot of smoke. You sure it’s not overfilled with oil?

Just to make sure, are you using NGK plugs?

Not overfilled with oil. 10W-30 conventional oil, 1.5 qts. It has Chinese plugs in it now, but had NGKs that are now in the good cart from the swap. These plugs worked great in the other cart, so no reason not to work in this one.

As for the carb/governor linkages, that is a mixed bag of mess. I don't have the right governor to carb cable and springs, but at this point, they don't make it run/not run. That video was the closest this thing has gotten to rev limit. Once I get it running, I can dial in the cables, but they are secondary to quality ignition.

As for running decently, that was the first and last time it actually ran like that...usually it is a mix of run/chug/choke/run/chug chug/choke.
Has a new air filter, and doesn't run better without the air filter, so I know it is not the intake. Gaskets are all good on the carb and carb and spacer are tight to the head. The smoke is poorly ignited fuel/air mix, not oil. Plug is very wet after run, so it is running super rich.

I have clean gas in it. I had bad gas in it previously, but with the carb swap, and new gas, that shouldn't be an issue. With either carb on it, the good machine doesn't smoke, even after the bad gas incident, so I don't think it is the carb. Swapping plugs didn't make a difference either. I'm thinking it has to be the coil. I'm going to try and get it running and drive it up the road and back...kill the mosquitos in the neighborhood, see if it clears up a bit, then if it doesn't, pull the coil and try another one. I think I have another one here that tests good, maybe. If the coil doesn't work, I will be at my wits end with this one.

[CP241]

I feel your frustration. If you have a good coil, wouldn’t hurt to swap it. But I wouldn’t rule out plugs either. In my experiences, those plugs aren’t worth the shiny holographic box they come in...

Wouldn’t hurt to check resistance of primary and secondary in the coil itself too.

And you mentioned finding a bent pin in the ignition connector... might be worth double checking that again. Make sure it’s got good contact and the mating terminal isn’t spread open creating a weak or intermittent connection. if you remove one plug and ground it to a valve cover bolt what color is the spark?

I’m just thinking out loud here... Eventually gotta get it right

[JPonLKN]

Ok, so I got it to run enough to drive it, adjusted the linkages so that I can get full throttle open, engages throttle a little bit after microswitch contact. I need a weaker spring on it, the governor won't pull this one back...hurray, I got it to actually pull under load and it pulls very strong up hill. Will actually accelerate up hill. Good throttle control other than not having a governor to pull it back, which will need to be fixed before it goes back into service. Apparently, they don't want 20 mph work carts, these guys get paid by the hour.

As for the smoke, it appears that it was a bit of both, oil and gas. Strong gas exhaust smell at first and big cloud, but after running it a good bit, that heavy smoke has seemed to clear up a good bit, so I am guessing that was just a lot of unburnt gas in the exhaust manifold and muffler, although it is still running rich and smokes heavy on full throttle. Plugs still come out wet after running and looking at the top of the piston, and it is wet after running while still hot. Under load, it smokes a lot...I like to think along the lines of James Bond after flipping a switch in the Austin Martin, but in actuality it is more like Wiley Coyote after lighting the fuse on an ACME rocket. Some of that seems to be burning oil...and now that it is running a bit better, you can smell the burnt oil. I will take a bit of oil out...it is right at the full mark on the stick. Engine sits level and stock suspension, so should be good as is, but I don't know if that is the original stick or one from a 295 or MCI motor that got stuck in there. Who knows. As far as I know, they should be the same. Either way, it should be fine with a bit less oil, so that will be tomorrow after it cools. I know I drained it previously and put a quart and a half in, so it shouldn't be too much, but that was the same day I adjusted the valve lash previously.

It still pops and bangs a bit, so possibly bad connector in the harness. I don't believe I have another harness...might have to make up some hard connections. I've had enough of it today, I'll check resistance on the primary and secondary on the coil again and see if I have another one laying around. I have several, just don't recall if any are within spec. I'm betting connector. I know this coil tested good when I put it in.

Hopefully, less oil solves the burning oil issue. I am not tearing this engine apart...I wish I had a scope I could poke down in the cylinder through the spark plug hole to inspect the cylinder walls. Might have to get crafty with a flashlight, tiny piece of mirror, some epoxy and a clothes hanger wire. Maybe be able to see enough in there to inspect the walls. I think the compression was over 160 last time I checked...probably do that tomorrow as well. Time for a beer or twelve.

Thanks for the ideas guys...this thing is improving and will out of my garage soon. Next project is tearing that garden tractor with loader apart and making it look a little less like a one tooth drunkard after a run in with a bus. Actually, I need to get that TXT body work finished, then the tractor. I hate body work.

[JPonLKN]

Well, coil is fine. Both sides within spec. Oil was at the correct level and the stick measures perfect. I changed the oil and filter. The oil came out and had white streaks, like it had water in it, and it was brownish grey, not healthy looking oil. Not sure where the water came from...This is recently changed oil too...not the stuff that was sitting in it for years. No time on the engine. It wasn't normal old oil...the consistency was newer oil, but with soot in it, like the smoky exhaust is getting mixed into it somehow.
Still need to verify my connector is making good contact...that's next after lunch.
I did finagle a mirror down into one of the cylinders on the end of a small copper wire...very difficult to get a good vantage point to inspect the walls, but I could see some areas, and there are definitely vertical markings indicating some cylinder wear, which is likely the reason for the smoke screen. I hate it, but it looks like this engine has to come out, pull the head for better inspection of the cylinder walls. I'm going to try and re-use the head gasket...I've heard some folks have had good results doing this. I'm not interested in spending anything on it but time.
Still doesn't answer why it won't run.