2000 ezgo txt series electric issue

[Gbasista88]

Recently picked up a 2000 ezgo txt 36v as a project.
Former owner did a complete resto powder coated everything on it and started to put it back together. Was running before taken apart.

Has new floor throttle assembly, new f/r switch, new solenoid.

I tested the motor with 12v and wheels turn when i do that.
Backup alarm works when in reverse. Just no power to the wheels.
If i jump the solenoid i still don’t get any power to the wheels.

If i use meter and go B+ to B- i get like 35.4
If i go B+ to M on the controller it’s like 32.9-33.1

All it’s getting when you push throttle peddle down is the click from solenoid,
Battery pack is 38.2

The controller is a Curtis and does not have the A2 tab.

I’ve tried swapping out controller with spare, micro switch, and solenoid and still same problem.

Any help or suggestions would be great! Thanks

[sthreatt]

With your volt ohm meter, and wheels off the floor on jack stands, read from M- on controller to B+ on the battery pack. What is the reading there as you press the pedal to floor ?

[Gbasista88]

I’ll check that once home from work.

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by Gbasista88

I’ll check that once home from work.

Slowly depress accelerator pedal until the solenoid engages. Watch the voltmeter. The reading should show the battery pack voltage. Now slowly depress the pedal and watch the reading, it should go down to nearly 0 volts.

​If the voltage starts at full pack and goes down near zero when the pedal is depressed and the motor is not responding then the problem lies in the high amperage side of the drive circuit. Check the cable connections, the forward and reverse switch, and the motor.
Also, you say the F/R switch was replaced. Double check for proper cable placement on the switch.

[Gbasista88]

Originally Posted by sthreatt

Slowly depress accelerator pedal until the solenoid engages. Watch the voltmeter. The reading should show the battery pack voltage. Now slowly depress the pedal and watch the reading, it should go down to nearly 0 volts.

​If the voltage starts at full pack and goes down near zero when the pedal is depressed and the motor is not responding then the problem lies in the high amperage side of the drive circuit. Check the cable connections, the forward and reverse switch, and the motor.
Also, you say the F/R switch was replaced. Double check for proper cable placement on the switch.

I checked wiring one by one last night. From a guide i found on here. Assuming A was at bottom B side towards battery, C top and D right side?

[sthreatt]

.....

[Gbasista88]

Originally Posted by sthreatt

.....

I’m newer to this stuff. Is that saying i need a jumper from B to C and A to D?
Cause i can say right now i don’t have jumpers on there lol

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Gbasista88

I’m newer to this stuff. Is that saying i need a jumper from B to C and A to D?
Cause i can say right now i don’t have jumpers on there lol

No, the double ended arrows on the schematic indicate which studs are connected together by the F/R switch contacts. Solid black arrows in one direction and outlined arrows in the other.

Typically, in forward A to D & C to B and in reverse it is A to B & C to D.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sthreatt

With your volt ohm meter, and wheels off the floor on jack stands, read from M- on controller to B+ on the battery pack. What is the reading there as you press the pedal to floor ?

Originally Posted by sthreatt

Slowly depress accelerator pedal until the solenoid engages. Watch the voltmeter. The reading should show the battery pack voltage. Now slowly depress the pedal and watch the reading, it should go down to nearly 0 volts.

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The test points and voltage readings don't match.

From M- to B+, the voltage ought to climb from 0V to battery pack voltage as pedal is pushed.

From B- to M- the voltage ought to start at pack voltage and decrease to 0V as pedal is pushed.

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The test points and voltage readings don't match.

From M- to B+, the voltage ought to climb from 0V to battery pack voltage as pedal is pushed.

From B- to M- the voltage ought to start at pack voltage and decrease to 0V as pedal is pushed.

Correct. I copy/pasted from this troubleshooting guide and didn't go far enough down. https://www.cartsunlimited.net/ezgo-...eshooting.html