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Old 05-27-2022, 09:58 AM   #11
ccy333
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Default Re: Stealth 4x4 Patriot 48V Issues

Thanks again for all the help.

I am going back to the "last things I messed with" and agree that seems like a good place to start. I really don't have a good understanding of how this whole throttle / brake system works electronically and would appreciate any explanations.

The original problem was that the parking break would not lock easily and when it did it was very hard to undo. the go pedal was also not coming back up all the way.

After messing with the things I will describe below, I ended up finding what I assume is the correct way to adjust the parking break by adjusting the metal rod that comes up to the small park section on the brake pedal.

I tried a few things and ended up placing a small disc spacer behind the spring that returns the go pedal back to zero. That is still in place as it was the only way i could make the go pedal go back to its home.

I also messed with whatever the triangular shaped disc in photo 3 to try and get these things to work together correctly. That was a pain in the butt, and ended up (trying) to put them all back to the exact setting they were in before. I would love to know more about this part as well as I want to rule it out in what is current problem.

In the attached photos:
#1 pencil is pointing to something that I assume has to do with the parking break but not sure what its job is. Maybe a brake light sensor?


#2 is the spacer i put in place.

#3 is the triangular disc that i referenced above.

#4 is brake pedal and wires coming to it. I am not sure what these do and would like to know as well. I unhooked them to get to parking brake adjustment but put them back in same position.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg gc1.jpg (151.8 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg gc2.jpg (160.7 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg gc3.jpg (171.2 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg gc4.jpg (131.9 KB, 0 views)

Last edited by ccy333; 05-27-2022 at 10:13 AM.. Reason: trying to attach photos
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Old 05-27-2022, 02:25 PM   #12
Bama Brad
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Default Re: Stealth 4x4 Patriot 48V Issues

When you started this, was it because your brakes not stopping and not locking? If that was the case, you adjust the black plate where the two cables come back from the back brakes. Tighten the nut on the threaded rod, That will tighten the brakes where it will lock again. Is that the blue spacer you show in picture #2?
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Old 05-27-2022, 02:39 PM   #13
Bama Brad
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Default Re: Stealth 4x4 Patriot 48V Issues

I am not an expert, but I don't think you have messed up anything major by doing what you did. The brakes are mechanical drum brakes like on a car (not electrical at all). I think you have adjusted your pedals to where something in that area (MOCR) is not getting contact to tell it to "go" when pedal is pushed. Now you just have to get it adjusted back to right spot. AS A NOTE for future, anytime you are working on electrical components, always disconnect battery. You CAN mess up bad by shorting something out. Controllers aren't cheap.
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Old 05-27-2022, 09:35 PM   #14
gyroman
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Default Re: Stealth 4x4 Patriot 48V Issues

Pics 1 and 4 look like micro-switches. If either one is bad you won't go. My Apache does not have these but it looks like the one on top of the brake pedal is to tell something (controller?) that the parking brake is on.

Pic 2 is a dirty pivot point not letting the go pedal come back up all the way. I did a thread about how I fixed mine after it did the same thing.

Pic 3 is your fine adjustment for your MCOR. That is the black box bolted in the little pocket along the frame. The rod coming out of it and bolted to your Triangle Thing is what advances the MCOR from the stopped position to the wide open throttle position. As Brad said, if you didn't put that back where it was, that could be your problem as well. You can loosen the bolt and turn the rod anywhere in the range of the slot to tune this correctly. I believe most MCOR's are set to deliver 0 to 5000 ohms to the controller to regulate speed. I was hoping that Brad had a copy of the MCOR testing procedure.
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Old 05-28-2022, 01:49 PM   #15
Bama Brad
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Default Re: Stealth 4x4 Patriot 48V Issues

I don’t have mocr testing, but it’s same as club car. I looked at microswitch on mine and i have no wires on on it. I think it has to do with brake lights ( mine doesn’t work )




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Old 05-28-2022, 05:58 PM   #16
gyroman
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Default Re: Stealth 4x4 Patriot 48V Issues

Yep that one under the floorboard definitely looks to activate tail lights.

I've had my MCOR out a few times trying to get more speed. The splined end of that rod will go into the MCOR in any position, you just have to put it in where the eye on the other end lines up with the slot on the "Triangle". Put the bolt in but leave it loose. Then you're supposed to put your voltmeter on ohms and measure your output. I can't remember if your pedal up output is supposed to be 0 or 5000 ohms but you rotate the rod in the slot until you get there and then lock it down. When you depress the go pedal it should go all the way to the other extreme. I think it was 5000 at rest and 0 at full throttle, but don't quote me on that. I hope somebody chimes in and gives us the lowdown on that!
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Old 05-30-2022, 08:20 AM   #17
gyroman
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Default Re: Stealth 4x4 Patriot 48V Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccy333 View Post
I can not get this to format correctly. please let me know if it is unclear.
QUESTIONS:
It appears from this test that my line contactor is bad as it does not close and go to 0.0V when gas on in neutral in first test. Is there another way to test this? What exactly is "line contactor"? is there something else that could cause this test result to fail?



TEST 1
Red Lead: Battery B(+)
Black LEad: Controller B+
Key ON
Pack Voltage 50.0V

Gear Selector N F and R
GAS OFF 7.07V 7.07V
GAS ON 7.07V 0.00V
__________________________________________


TEST 2
Red Lead: Battery B(+)
Black Lead: Controller M-
KEy ON
Pack Voltage 50.0V



Gear Gas Off Gas ON
N 7.86 7.86
F 26.37 49.9
R 26.37 49.9


TEST 3
Red Lead: Pin 3 controller with yellow wire
Black Lead: Battery Pack B(-)

No gas: 0.14V
When slowly increasing gas it will slowly rise until solenoid clicks around 0.55V continue rising until fully pressed.
When gas fully pressed: 4.62V
Just rereading this post. Your line contactor would have to be the solenoid. They have been known to pass the test I referenced before and still not be making good enough contact to give enough voltage to make the cart move. So if that test procedure is giving you a fail, then try replacing it with a known good 48v solenoid.
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Old 06-01-2022, 08:20 AM   #18
ccy333
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Default Re: Stealth 4x4 Patriot 48V Issues

Trying to find one today. Is there another test I can do to try and check solenoid?
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Old 06-01-2022, 08:30 AM   #19
gyroman
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Default Re: Stealth 4x4 Patriot 48V Issues

It's not really recommended, but you could turn the key off and run a heavy wire from one side of the solenoid to the other and then try it. In essence by-passing the solenoid.
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Old 06-01-2022, 12:27 PM   #20
ccy333
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Default Re: Stealth 4x4 Patriot 48V Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Brad View Post
When you started this, was it because your brakes not stopping and not locking? If that was the case, you adjust the black plate where the two cables come back from the back brakes. Tighten the nut on the threaded rod, That will tighten the brakes where it will lock again. Is that the blue spacer you show in picture #2?
The original issue was that the parking break would not latch easily or at all. If you were able to latch it with EXTREME force on pedal, it would be very difficult to unlock. I now know after fixing it the correct way that the adjustment comes from the rod coming off the break pedal going down thorough the floor(shown in pic 4) to the parts that link together with teeth (shown in the bottom left corner of pic 1)

The spacer I added was the white round disc behind the spring and before the blue disc that you asked about. I added it to add tension to the spring that pushes the pedal back up.

Thanks for the explanation on tightening the brake. I could figure that part out but didnt need to adjust it.

Im thinking that I need to have a good way to test the MCOR and make sure that it is in the correct position.

If it were not working at all or if I had it in the wrong spot, would it still be able to tell the solenoid to "click"?
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