1989-1993 Ez-Go Marathon Engine Manual Scanned

[lidsvil]

Guys: I finally scanned in the engine section (24 pages) of my 1989 through 1993 2 cycle gas engine manual being manual number 24750-G1. The only way I could scan it was in TIF format which should work on any computer with Microsoft Office or Image Viewer. If anyone wants it they can email me at lidsville@comcast.net It is not a prefect scan because one bottom corner wanted to curl up on me here and there, but it does not affect anything essential at all (just a few warnings but no instructive language). Dave

[lidsvil]

Dear Group: This is the body of an email I sent to a fellow Buggies member regarding my upper end engine rebuild. You may find it useful. Cheers, Dave

I bought an entire upper-end rebuild kit from Ebay. It was cheap as hell and worked great. I paid $189.00 plus $16 shipping to my door. Tear yours apart first to see what happened. Mine had two broken rings and only 40 lbs of compression when we tore it down for failure to start. I can guarantee you that not enough oil causing too much heat and too much wear were definitely to blame.

My next door neighbor is a wiz at everything and did it with ease. Anyone with any small engine experience will think these are a breeze. The only bitch is getting the clutch assembly off of the crank because we went ahead and replaced the crank seals because one of them was leaking. They make a tool for it but my neighbor did it in his press (which I do not recommend to anyone). You can also use a 3/4 inch fine thread bolt that is 2 inches long and then simply put a socket or sockets underneath it for pushing. The length of the socket(s) has to be about 5 inches if I remember. In other words, the threads are near the surface of the clutch and that is where the bolt threads in and applies outward force. The sockets simply act as spaces down at the crank. Ask me and maybe I can find the article on it again on the buggies website, it is there, if you still do not understand.

I did not have to do anything else to the bottom of the engine other than the crank seals. As for the top half, the kit came with everything brand spanking new (jug, piston, pin and rings, gaskets, etc). The kit does not come with a top connecting rod bearing. I wish I would have bought one now but mine was "ok". They are only 8 bucks. It now has about 130 lbs of compression and it is not even broken in yet. I did replace the drive belt while the engine was out as it was badly worn. I got it for $29.99 to my door off of ebay. My generator belt was fine. If you want to buy a manual they are cheap and I honestly recommend it if you plan on keeping your cart. The section on the brakes is worth the cost alone. Everything below is cheap on Ebay. Search the part numbers in both the title and description of the auctions

Here is some info for you:

Manual you need Ez-go Part Number 24750-G1
Clutch Removal Tool: Ez-Go Part Number 19779-G2 (YOU CAN ALSO USE A 3/4 INCH FINE THREAD BOLT THAT IS 2 INCHES LONG)
Belt: Ez-Go Part Number : Ez-Go Part Number 27077-G02 (buy a Carlisle, Dayco or Gates, all made in USA)
Upper End I purchased, see ebay Auction number 220419580717
Crank Seal Number 3991 or ez-go number 14524-G1
Link to a site with good priced top connecting rod bearing (first thing listed) and crank seal (near the bottom of the page):
http://www.jandbmotorsales.com/c-365...-bearings.aspx

[STUMP32536]

Thanks lidsvil I am in the peocess of redoing a 91 so all this will help me for sure. This is my first cart and it wasn't a basket case but right next to it so all the help will work