2003 Club Car Lithium Conversion

[aquamusic]

Originally Posted by TopDog69

I've got a question about the 48v to 12v converter. Where did you connect the -ve wire on the 12v side?

I've got a similar converter, 48v wires go to battery + and -, and I figure 12v +v goes to the existing fuse box, which feeds three accessories.

But not sure where they come back to. I'm wondering if I should connect to the ground strip that is just beside the charging port?

Our cart did not have a common ground for 12 & 48V. It just had 2 wires for the 12V circuit connected to the old converter, which I attached to output on new converter.

[TopDog69]

Appreciate the responses but I am just not following.

I've got this converter.

https://www.amazon.com/dkplnt-Conver...s%2C180&sr=8-3

I'm just not understanding exactly where on my cart to connect the 12v wires.

Screenshot 2024-12-04 1.19.47 PM.png

[jasonojordan]

Red To + Battery/Pack Terminal
Black next to Red to - Battery/Pack Terminal
Black next to Yellow to -12 side of accessories or terminal block
Yellow to +12 side of accessories or terminal block/fuses

With that configuration it will be powered on all the time and draw down your battery. To avoid this you will need a relay that can switch the reducer on and off.

[Electric Bug Zapper]

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

Red To + Battery/Pack Terminal
Black next to Red to - Battery/Pack Terminal
Black next to Yellow to -12 side of accessories or terminal block
Yellow to +12 side of accessories or terminal block/fuses

With that configuration it will be powered on all the time and draw down your battery. To avoid this you will need a relay that can switch the reducer on and off.

I just wired the input to the buck converter to the loose grey wire up in the dash. No need at all for a relay. The grey wire is switched +48 volts, and the converter and the led lights draw less than 1/2 an amp at 48 volts. A relay is, imo, just adding needless complexity and work. A relay might be needed if you are running a stereo or other heavier 12 volt loads, but for a headlight and a couple tail lights, meh.

[aquamusic]

Wiring panel attached

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by Electric Bug Zapper

I just wired the input to the buck converter to the loose grey wire up in the dash. No need at all for a relay. The grey wire is switched +48 volts, and the converter and the led lights draw less than 1/2 an amp at 48 volts. A relay is, imo, just adding needless complexity and work. A relay might be needed if you are running a stereo or other heavier 12 volt loads, but for a headlight and a couple tail lights, meh.

What is the grey wire switched by? If its the key switch you will burn it up. Its the inrush current that does it.

If you hook the input of these buck converters up you will see a large spark as it charges the capacitors in the converter. That same spark happens every time in a switch and will eat up switches quickly. Its well documented.

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by aquamusic

Wiring panel attached

Yes that looks like it should work nicely.

[Electric Bug Zapper]

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

What is the grey wire switched by? If its the key switch you will burn it up. Its the inrush current that does it.

If you hook the input of these buck converters up you will see a large spark as it charges the capacitors in the converter. That same spark happens every time in a switch and will eat up switches quickly. Its well documented.

This one didn’t seem to, and it draws very little current under load. Less than half an amp, maybe even a quarter. The key switch is rated for what? Five?

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by Electric Bug Zapper

This one didn’t seem to, and it draws very little current under load. Less than half an amp, maybe even a quarter. The key switch is rated for what? Five?

I am just regurgitating what has been preached on here. Perhaps engineering advancements have made it less of a issue then it had been in the past?

[InvalidUsername]

Agree with JJ. Try connecting the wire to see if you get a spark. Inrush current is the concern.