Navitas Controller Issue

[pshoooter2000]

First post here but I have been lurking for quite some time. I appreciate all the good input over the years. I am at my wit's end however.

Specs are 2004 Club Car DS (IQ) with Navitas 440amp controller, brand new batteries (6 x 8volt) and 4 gauge wires, and upgraded 400 amp RedHawk solenoid with new heavy duty resistor and diode.

With the unit fully installed I am getting almost zero voltage to the controller which you can see on the bluetooth app. The controller will not pre-charge so the cart just sits there with nothing working.

I have narrowed down the issue to the F2 connector going into the controller. I say this because I unhooked all the wires and started testing one at a time. With B-, B+, M, and F1 connections hooked up I was getting voltage at the controller and the solenoid clicks with throttle applied.

As soon as the F2 connection is plugged up the controller voltage immediately drops to 0.13 volts (as opposed to 52v with it off) and all cart functionality ceases.

I will say that the new controller has worked before but I had to replace the solenoid/resistor after the resistor burned up shortly after installing the 440amp controller. Ever since the solenoid has been replaced I have had this issue.


I do not think it is a motor short because I hooked up the stock 250amp curtis controller and the cart works just fine. I really want the Navitas controller to work because I can lock the speed down when the kids are having fun.

Do I have a defective controller (even though it worked before the new solenoid went in)? Did I burn up something in the new controller when the resistor blew? Or am I just doing something wrong?

I greatly appreciate ya'lls time.

[jakesnake27]

to BGW

It does sound like an issue with the controller...

So you replaced both the solenoid and resistor with new? When the resistor blows, that is due to a load being applied when the solenoid is not engaged, typically either a controller or motor short. Since the cart operates with the stock controller, I would point to the controller. Navitas should be able to send you out a new one.

[Chevota Guy]

Please let us know if it does indeed turn out to be the Navitas controller. If it does, this will be the second one I've read about in the last week.

I have been considering the TAC2 controller, but will likely not change my old Danaher anytime soon to see if reliability issues get reported.

[Fairtax4me]

Like Jake said, Normally the pre-charge resistor doesn't just burn up. It's usually a fault in the controller or the motor that causes the resistor to fail.

Since you swapped the Original controller back in, did you test that controller with the New solenoid/resistor?

[SSpeedyy]

On page 7 of the install manual, I believe it says to remove the precharge resistor.

[pshoooter2000]

I have removed the Navitas controller and gone back to the stock 250amp Curtis controller for now. Everything is functional including the heavier solenoid.

Hopefully I can get the Navitas controller replaced in a timely manner.

Or... would you guys recommend a totally different controller? I looked at Alltrax but I will have to say the major sales point was the "on the fly" dashboard that lets you set speed/regen/acceleration (to limit what the kids can do) and the Bluetooth functionality.

On a side note to the gentleman that was asking about Navitas, if you want the dealer app to actually program/update firmware yourself you CANNOT do this with an iPhone or iOS device. Dan (a sales manager at navitas) tried several times to send me the link and it would not come through iOS; he even sent a screenshot. He also asked if I had any Android devices because it "seems to work better".

I appreciate ya'lls input.

To be continued.

[molfpedal]

Originally Posted by pshoooter2000

On a side note to the gentleman that was asking about Navitas, if you want the dealer app to actually program/update firmware yourself you CANNOT do this with an iPhone or iOS device. Dan (a sales manager at navitas) tried several times to send me the link and it would not come through iOS; he even sent a screenshot. He also asked if I had any Android devices because it "seems to work better".

I appreciate ya'lls input.

To be continued.

I have a TAC 2 with the IOS dealer app in a 2011 RXV. I had to get the controller replaced after just 3 weeks. Navitas sent a RMA and label via email the day I contacted them and sent the new controller as soon as they saw that I had shipped the 1st one.
My cart has a Leaf lithium 120ah pack and it happened the first time I used the Navitas with a full charge. So, I have changed my charge settings and regen settings to try to avoid too much excess voltage dumping to the resistor.


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