Cart is dead. How to test motor/ alltrax controller.

[KRAZYMATT]

I unplugged the charger, crawled under the cart and removed the wire from the controller m- terminal, placed my meter leads positive on b+ and negative lead on m- and I get full pack voltage 49.8 (cart has been on charger for little bit now) weather the pedal is pressed or not... I get same reading also from b+ on controller to b- on controller

[NCPW]

Read through my thread on testing a series controller with pretty much the same components you have.

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...153486&page=11

I'll say, make sure you tug on all your high amperage cables really good to make sure there is a proper connection before doing anymore diagnostics.

[KRAZYMATT]

Originally Posted by NCPW

Read through my thread on testing a series controller with pretty much the same components you have.

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...153486&page=11

I'll say, make sure you tug on all your high amperage cables really good to make sure there is a proper connection before doing anymore diagnostics.

Excellent thank you! 11 pages! I started reading through it some hopefully next week sometime I’ll get some time to really dig into it. I hoping Sergio chimes in soon here aswell, he’s very well versed in this area and helped me a lot with wiring up the charger interlock and reversing contactor...

[Sergio]

Getting +48v on the cable that goes to M- indicates that one side of the Reversing Contactor is stuck in the top position, and you can see that on the picture you posted of the melted contacts.

There is no possibility of anything on Controller or Motor frying due to a failure of the RC since if both sides of the RC are ON or both OFF would not allow current to flow.

It does look like the only issue is the Reversing Contactor that needs to be replaced.

Once You remove the Contactor you can do some analysts to try to figure out what happen.

If there is a bug stuck inside, it could have kept the contacts from fully closing which would have generated heat.

If You normally use the cart under load like pulling a trailer, You may want to consider adding a delay circuit so the RC does not open and close every time you press and release the pedal.

https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=167297

[KRAZYMATT]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Getting +48v on the cable that goes to M- indicates that one side of the Reversing Contactor is stuck in the top position, and you can see that on the picture you posted of the melted contacts.

There is no possibility of anything on Controller or Motor frying due to a failure of the RC since if both sides of the RC are ON or both OFF would not allow current to flow.

It does look like the only issue is the Reversing Contactor that needs to be replaced.

Once You remove the Contactor you can do some analysts to try to figure out what happen.

If there is a bug stuck inside, it could have kept the contacts from fully closing which would have generated heat.

If You normally use the cart under load like pulling a trailer, You may want to consider adding a delay circuit so the RC does not open and close every time you press and release the pedal.

https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=167297

There he is! Thank you. With the reverse contactor fried open like that will it also prevent the forward function from working then? I will also read into the delay you posted as all your suggestions have been very sound directions to go and much better alternative that how they suggest... I guess I will order a new sw-202 and go from there...

[KRAZYMATT]

I looked at the delay. We use those at work a lot just a simple off delay relay. When the power to the coil drops out it starts the timer and keeps it latched for the set time then drops out. Very simple. 👍🏼. I have the dpdt rocker switch for the f-n-r wired the way you suggested were it cuts out in neutral.

[KRAZYMATT]

Got the sw-202 contactor changed out all is good! The reverse contact was fried.