Solenoid

[Swan]

A few years back I put in a larger solenoid. Everything worked fine then about a year ago it stopped clicking (assume stuck closed) and being a series cart It was ok, then every once in a while it would click a few times here and there.

About two weeks ago it started clicking all the time like it should. Then it would not click and not go at all (assume stuck open) . Step on the peddle 30 times or so and it will click and go just fine.

With a visual inspection all wiring looks fine and nothing stand out as the problem. Do we assume it's the solenoid that has gone bad or is the something else I need to look at first before dropping a few hundred bucks ?

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[Swan]

For the peeps that are using tapatalk it is a 2000 series DS.

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[Fairtax4me]

Likely the solenoid has failed.
Can check the voltage at the small pins and just make sure it's getting 48v.

What solenoid is it?
The MZJ-400 solenoids seem to have some issues, and there are others that are picky about the studs twisting.

[Tom47]

I would think the contacts became pitted over the years. As time goes by, the pitting will lead to contacts fusing closed. When the pitting becomes too bad, it will not allow the contact to be made. Sounds like your scenario.

I think you got a fairly good service life out of the solenoid. I don't believe you have other problems as long as the solenoid coil is getting the correct full operating voltage. If one of the inline switches is not closing 100%, which can happen, the coil current will be high and the solenoid will be subject to early failure.

Make sure you have full operating voltage at the coil of the solenoid before you change it out. Regardless, the solenoid needs to be replaced at this point.

[Swan]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Likely the solenoid has failed.
Can check the voltage at the small pins and just make sure it's getting 48v.

across both small pins ? I will check for 48 volt

What solenoid is it?
The MZJ-400 solenoids .

YES

Originally Posted by Tom47

Make sure you have full operating voltage at the coil of the solenoid before you change it out. Regardless, the solenoid needs to be replaced at this point.

is that the same test on the small pins or different ?

You said something about a inline switch , the limit switches from the f/r switch have been removed with the addition of reverse contractors . i see no other switches ....

[Tom47]

is that the same test on the small pins or different ? Yes, the operating coil is the small terminals.

You said something about a inline switch , the limit switches from the f/r switch have been removed with the addition of reverse contractors . i see no other switches ....[/quote]

From the key switch to the speed controller switch to the coil terminals, you could be losing voltage. These are the inline switches. I'm not sure what you have.

[Swan]

im on scottys page and looking at solenoids , I see what I have already and I also see a different one , don't know if this would be better

https://www.cartsunlimited.net/solenoids.html
#5
SW200 dual voltage
Same super-duty 400/1000 amp solenoid
with magnetic breakouts for longer service
good for 36 and 48 volt use.

[Fairtax4me]

Yeah the Albright with the magnetic breakouts are supposed to hold up better to high amp loads. The SW180 is the stock solenoid for most Club Car electric carts.
The 200 is the upgrade version. Should work great for yours.

[scottyb]

If the cart is 48v select the 48v unit. It will be better matched for overvoltage should you go to a lithium battery later. The SW202 magnetic breakout feature means the main contacts will stay cleaner longer ensuring a longer useful life. Thanks for asking

[kgsc]

202 is the reversing one correct? I believe 200 is what you need.