2007 G22 (Electric) Not Running - New Batteries & Solenoid

[BradTX227]

Hello all,

Recently purchased a used '07 G22. When we got it, it was completely stock. Not well cared for, but it ran. It was really sluggish, but it at least worked. My hunch was batteries, but I needed to know the live voltage under load. So, the first thing I did was install one of those digital "DROK" voltage/battery monitors off if Amazon. Voltage was super low, even after I had cared for the aged batteries.

At this point, we waited to pay for new batteries, and decided to wait until we could buy EVERYTHING we wanted to upgrade it with. It sat for 6+ months, until recently, everything was paid for and arrived.

I installed a RHOX 6" spindle lift, a back seat assembly, upgraded HD rear springs, and after all of that, I replaced all of the batteries with a brand new set from U.S. Battery.

It was working again, but it was still sluggish, and the voltage under load (even right after a fresh charge) was dipping down as low as 30v. My understanding is that a healthy system (with fresh batteries) shouldn't drop below 42v under load. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. But it also sounded like brand new batteries also weren't expected to operate at optimum levels until after 30 - 50 charge cycles.

I didn't trust driving it too far, so we just kinda drove it back and forth on our street for maybe 10 minutes a day. On day 3 of this new setup, I started to back it out of the garage and I heard what sounded like a "fart" coming from behind me. Now I know what you're thinking, and if you'll show a little restraint, I promise you it wasn't me. When I heard that noise, the cart immediately stopped, and it hasn't worked since. No more motor buzzing. No clicks from the solenoid. Nothing.

I know that solenoids are frequent culprits due to the abuse they get, so I bought an aftermarket solenoid, and I installed it. To be exact, I bought a "ROP Shop 48v Solenoid" from Amazon. I installed it with high expectations, but it didn't solve the problem. There is no click when taking it out of tow mode. No click when the key is turned to ON. No click when pressing the accelerator.

I tested all batteries. All read at 8v. I tested the large posts at the solenoid, and they are getting the appropriate 45v (my understanding is that there is an expected 3v drop from batteries to solenoid). I've checked all of the connections multiple times, and everything seems to be tight.

I've read that it could potentially be the key switch, or a stop/start switch, or the tow switch, or the speed controller, but I can't seem to find instructions on troubleshooting these items.

Can someone point me I the right direction or give me some advice?

[ojo]

According to Trojan battery data a 8v battery should read 8.49v at 100% SOC, 50.93v for the whole pack, even If they are brand new! I think US batteries are very similar. The voltage at the solenoid = pack voltage and a little less at controller side. So if you're getting only 8v / 45v it's much too low!

[BradTX227]

Actually, I just went back and I found that one of the batteries is only reading at 3v. Specifically, the one furthest on the drivers side. It has the main negative cable attached to it the battery series. So now I'm thinking I definitely need to isolate that battery and figure out what's wrong with it, and potentially even return it.

That said, I'm still getting the same 45v to the solenoid, and the same 45v to the controller.

At the very least, assuming everything is normal, shouldn't 45v be more than enough to activate the solenoid and power the controller and motor? I realize that's lower than ideal, but I should still be operational, right?

It just has me thinking that, aside from the one low battery, something is broken. And I'm not sure what to test.

[BradTX227]

UPDATE:
I read somewhere to try jumping the key switch and the tow/run switch. So I've done that. I bypassed both switches with makeshift jumpers, and I tested the voltage to make sure it was successful.

At this point, I still have no solenoid clicking, no controller buzzing, nothing.

Any ideas on what else to test or how to do that?

[ojo]

Ok, with 45v the motor could run, but i'm not shure with the controller / solenoid. One battery @ 3v is devinetely dead and should be replaced.