replace seals in a 3 pg

[skimaniac6]

So there it was all torn apart, clean and ready for the top end. Then the post read, "You should replace the seals while you have it out of the cart". Shades of doubt crept in, sheesh was I ready to do this? Should I do this? Darn it if I don't do it I will regret it later! Only problem is I don't know how, I saw a post about it yesterday but now can't find it. I get the pulling of the clutch and the flywheel, how do you get the seals out without major headaches? Also how much and what fluid needs to go back in the crankcase after you do this?
Thanks,
Scott

[madoc1]

i had a heck of a time trying to pull the seals so just went ahead and split the case. if the bearings don,t come out with the crank you can drive them out with a punch. then just drive out the seals toward the outside of the case halves.

reinstall the seals to the same depth that they were originally. do replace them. it is really easier than it sounds. you will need a sealant for the case halves reassembly. must be gas proof. permatex makes a grey one that works well.

nothing goes in crankcase -all the lube is supplied with the oil and gas mixture

[Dave Box]

Scott, That was probably one of my threads as I have been whittering on about changing crankshaft seals If you are very dexterous then you probably, maybe, possibily could do it with the engine in the cart but with the engine out it is way easier and with the seals costing $3 each why not save yourself the heartache of them failing next summer. In addition they won't fail completely but rather slowly enough to make your cart run worse and worse until you become frustrated enough not to enjoy your cart any more.
The first time I did this I was rebuilding the engine so I did split the crankcase. Subsequently I was able to remove them without spliting the case and this is clearly preferable if you can do it. I used a long bladed screwdriver as both a chisel and a lever and I was able to get under the lip of the seal and winkle them out. Obviously you don't care about destroying the seal but take care not to hack up the seal seating on the crankcase. When it comes to replacement I used a very large socket as a drift and with a rubber mallet very gently tapped it in making sure it was sliding in square. Just for some additional security (and I am still not certain that this is stricly neccessary) I ran a little Loctite bearing sealant around the outside on the seal on the metal to metal contact.

I have come to realise that there are as many opinions as there are guys on this forum so I always like to say that it is your cart and your money and your decision but in this case.......... change the seals buddy

[Phillip]

Dave has the right idea. Your not going to re-use the seals, so it doesn't matter if you destroy them getting them out. I had an old big flat head screw driver that I bent at the end into a shape if an "L", it tore the seal up, but it got them out of there without to much of a problem. Also as Dave has said, use some Loctight on the new seal when installing them, and make sure you clean the seal seat good before you put them in.
GOOD LUCK!!

[skimaniac6]

Thanks for the info, I hope I can get this done while the weather is nice.

[Dave Box]

Good luck Skimaniac, please keep us posted, it's always good to see a successful resolution to a job and a thread.
Dave

[rib33024]

Take lots of pics for others to see

alot of people ask about this, be the one to show them how

[skimaniac6]

Sorry for all the questions. I was going to buy seals at a local golf cart shop and was told ez go dosen't supply them for my motor. He told me to take the old ones to Napa and they could match them. I'm afraid I might rip them apart so bad you won't be able to read the numbers. Does anyone have the part number I need so I don't have to go to Napa after I pull them out?
Thanks.

[Dave Box]

Just type 3PG crankshaft seal into Google and a whole load of suppliers will pop up. Order two at $3.76 each and when they arrive you don't care about damaging the old ones.

[skimaniac6]

Thanks, I got the seals coming now I am fighting the clutch. I made a clutch puller but there was so much rust I need to tap the hole. I can't find any buddies that have a 3/4 inch tap so me the cheap one must bite the bullet and buy one. I knew this wasn't going to be quick but it should be worth it in the long run. Thanks again for the support.