Front End Positive Camber

[MattH]

I installed split shaft collars today on my shocks. The cart rode great afterwards with no more body roll or erratic steering. The rears are working great. The front spacers made my camber extremely positive. I tried installed the spacer on the top instead to force the spring pressure down instead of up, but the keeper would not drop inside the spacer as it does with the spring. How is everyone shimming their front springs to make their suspension more stiff but avoid the positive camber? I noticed someone used rear springs on the front but their issue was negative camber.

The collars are the same one used in the Jake’s red spring kit.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jhF8cEnV3jsCxj6H7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZpYmdVKTLcxuappVA

[slonomo]

So like this? / \ or like this? \ /

The problem is the suspension design. This is a single a arm with king pin, also known as a swing arm design. The spindle/hub is fixed and when you raise the suspension point you change the angle of the spindle/hub. The opposite is also true.

In order to lift the suspension you also have to drop the pivot point where the a arm mounts to the frame.

[MattH]

Originally Posted by slonomo

So like this? / \ or like this? \ /

The problem is the suspension design. This is a single a arm with king pin, also known as a swing arm design. The spindle/hub is fixed and when you raise the suspension point you change the angle of the spindle/hub. The opposite is also true.

In order to lift the suspension you also have to drop the pivot point where the a arm mounts to the frame.

Like this \ /. It has a 4” lift which dropped the center of the A arms. The camber has always been \ / but after the shims it was really bad. Is the only way to to correct this, to purchase a new lift? Any suggestions?

Has anyone successfully shimmed the upper half of the shock versus the lower half. I believe this may force the spring pressure downward, helping the a arm angle.

Don said he shims shocks for $50/pair. He claims being able to fix \ /. I didn’t go into much detail with him about how he does it because I already had these to try.

Front End
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZY43DGeLdiGEuSfR6

Rear End After Spacer
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wZUuyrRuSFK8iSkL8

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by MattH

Has anyone successfully shimmed the upper half of the shock versus the lower half. I believe this may force the spring pressure downward, helping the a arm angle.

The a arm doesn't know what side of the spring the shim is on, the net effect is the same.

If you have too much positive camber, it means you have one or more of the following:
a. too much preload on the spring causing a lack of "suspension sag"
b. too long of a shock
c. too much toe in setting causing tire scrub and suspension lift (usually happens on pavement)

[MattH]

Originally Posted by slonomo

The a arm doesn't know what side of the spring the shim is on, the net effect is the same.

If you have too much positive camber, it means you have one or more of the following:
a. too much preload on the spring causing a lack of "suspension sag"
b. too long of a shock
c. too much toe in setting causing tire scrub and suspension lift (usually happens on pavement)

Thanks Slo, I read an old thread on here you posted describing tire scrub. When the spacers were installed it would almost want to go straight while turning fast. The springs are back to stock now, I may make a longer arm drop bracket.

From what I’ve seen a weak spring will cause negative camber, but I’m positive. Not sure if the issue is worn out shocks or the lift.