detangling my mess. 48v Club Car Build

[Notserp]

Voltage on each battery was 8ish.
Plugged into controller, all settings seemed to be ok. Voltage display drops to 20ish when pedal is depressed. Thing is a slug. Drives like it’s about to die. Furthest I’ve gone is about 30 yards or so.

Battery’s I thought were swollen at tops, but it’s same on each one? Thought maybe it was design?

Anyway, feels like there is some trash in the carb, just waiting to clear out before this thing takes off.

Terminals and a good cleaning is next step. Just trouble shooting as I go.




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[Notserp]

Originally Posted by djohns18

If you are asking about the orientation of the batteries and cable routing, the attached is from the 1997 Illustrated Parts List.

I am, just seems like my configuration is not like any I’ve seen. Since I have a 2018 motor and controller, want to make sure it’s right for my current situation and not go backwards.


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[handtools]

If your pack voltage is dropping to 20v when you step on the go pedal then your batteries are suspect.

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by Notserp

I am, just seems like my configuration is not like any I’ve seen. Since I have a 2018 motor and controller, want to make sure it’s right for my current situation and not go backwards.


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Your cart began life as a 36 volt resistor cart. You won't find an exact diagram for it.

[Wakko47]

Did you check the water level in the batteries?

[SpringerNC]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Your cart began life as a 36 volt resistor cart. You won't find an exact diagram for it.

Understood, just looking reference to proper series wiring, as this one is not the same as other 48v diagrams I have seen.

[DaveMJ]

Originally Posted by SpringerNC

Understood, just looking reference to proper series wiring, as this one is not the same as other 48v diagrams I have seen.

Pack positive is normally pulled form the right rear battery and pack negative from the left rear battery. Yours is not that way, but I don't see that as a problem as long as connections are correct.

Pack.JPG

Not sure why you referred to that motor as "The Beast", I have one of those in a stock 1998 48v DS, it tops out at about 19 MPH - which is better than stock, but hardly a "Beast".

I don't think that controller will give you any speed advantage over my stock 225 AMP setup. I was considering a controller upgrade, I took some measurements and concluded that the motor was seeing full pack voltage at 19 MPH and under hard acceleration. So did not anticipate any gains in upgrading the controller.

Your cart has many modifications. As others have stated your cart will not conform to any of the OEM wiring diagrams. Modifications include:

- Conversion from 36v to 48v, looks like you still have the 36v charging receptacle and F/R switch (1 versus 3 microswitches) and no OBC.
- Obviously the Alltrax and Heavy Duty solenoid (behind the batteries) are upgrades impacting the wiring.
- Voltage reducer has been added on crossmember behind the batteries. I assume you have lights also, so more non-OEM wiring.

I don't think any of the above are issues, just deviations from OEM. If you want a wiring diagram you'll have to create one.

Your wires from the F/R switch seem to be running under one of your batteries rather than along the frame rail highlighted in red. Suggest you either reroute or at least make sure they are adequately restrained so they do not snag on anything.

Cable.JPG

After you've cleaned all the battery connections I would place a multimeter across the pack and see if the pack voltage is being pulled down to 20v when you try and move. You'll then have a better idea of where to look next.

[PingEye3]

No matter what you try to do to get it running, you will never get anywhere on those batteries. Replace them, clean and/or replace the cables and you can concentrate on making the cart run correctly or add upgrades etc. You are not going to revive those batteries with any magic potions or anything else. IMHO

[SpringerNC]

Originally Posted by djohns18

Pack positive is normally pulled form the right rear battery and pack negative from the left rear battery. Yours is not that way, but I don't see that as a problem as long as connections are correct.

Attachment 216167

Not sure why you referred to that motor as "The Beast", I have one of those in a stock 1998 48v DS, it tops out at about 19 MPH - which is better than stock, but hardly a "Beast".

I don't think that controller will give you any speed advantage over my stock 225 AMP setup. I was considering a controller upgrade, I took some measurements and concluded that the motor was seeing full pack voltage at 19 MPH and under hard acceleration. So did not anticipate any gains in upgrading the controller.

Your cart has many modifications. As others have stated your cart will not conform to any of the OEM wiring diagrams. Modifications include:

- Conversion from 36v to 48v, looks like you still have the 36v charging receptacle and F/R switch (1 versus 3 microswitches) and no OBC.
- Obviously the Alltrax and Heavy Duty solenoid (behind the batteries) are upgrades impacting the wiring.
- Voltage reducer has been added on crossmember behind the batteries. I assume you have lights also, so more non-OEM wiring.

I don't think any of the above are issues, just deviations from OEM. If you want a wiring diagram you'll have to create one.

Your wires from the F/R switch seem to be running under one of your batteries rather than along the frame rail highlighted in red. Suggest you either reroute or at least make sure they are adequately restrained so they do not snag on anything.

Attachment 216170

After you've cleaned all the battery connections I would place a multimeter across the pack and see if the pack voltage is being pulled down to 20v when you try and move. You'll then have a better idea of where to look next.

Great thoughts, thank you. "the beast" is what they called it on the site, assuming it was more for torque over speed then since you only see 19mph?

I know the truth about the batteries, I need to dive in and replace. 800.00 will be spent soon, just going to use the same Duracells. I am wanting a good few years from them, but also on a school teacher budget with this build, so the dream of a lithium pack is not realistic. Especially when I don't know for sure if this thing will go with new batteries or not yet.

They need water bad, so assuming they are shot and were not cared for well. Going to throw some water in them for kicks and see what happens since thats only a 2.00 risk.

Planning to just bo for the batteries soon though. if thats a big fail, at least I can be ready for the next cart with batteries.

Sounds like I need to update/address a few things based on your observations, I really appreciate that help as I know how to fix/repair, but green in the sense of cart bits and pieces.

[Notserp]

I am assuming this is a good indicator my batteries are trash. If I didn’t already realize it, the numbers tell the truth.

Am I correct in this assumption. We were moving at a slow speed for sure. I would hope 93% throttle will have me smiling with good batteries.

Found the Duracell’s at Sams for 111.00 best bang for my budget it seems.


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