2002 cart wiring questions

[Cape Fear Scot]

My grandchildren tore up my 1998 EZ GO cart over Christmas (broke the differential while driving too rough), so I've just bought a 2002 model that hasn't run in awhile. It appears to be complete and in good shape, except that the controller housing is missing (along with the run/tow switch) and the key switch is gone (wiring is there, but the switch has been removed). The seller said that the cart belonged to his grandparents, who died recently. Someone subsequently stole the charger from their house, the batteries were dead, and he sold the cart to me for cheap. He told me (and I believe him) that it was running well up until they both died a year or two ago. It has been sitting out in the weather for about a year. My plan is to use the one-year-old batteries from the broken cart to get the 2002 going again. Today I transferred the batteries over to the 2002 model, and connected everything. The backup warning beeper goes off when the reverse direction switch is engaged, but the solenoid doesn't click and there's no movement.

I put a test light across the wires for the key switch (to close the circuit) and pressed the accelerator, but still nothing happened (no click and no movement). The test light did come on when the accelerator pedal was pressed, which surprised me.

I don't understand why the backup warning beeper comes on when the key switch circuit isn't closed. Is that supposed to happen? Or has someone bypassed the key switch?

I'm also puzzled because I don't see a connector for a run/tow switch. I could install the housing and switch off my '98, but I don't see where to plug the switch in. I downloaded a 2002 service manual, and it does show a switch.

To summarize, I have two questions. 1) Is that run-tow switch necessary? And, if so, why don't a see a connector for it? 2) Since the key switch isn't there, using the test light across the terminals should close the circuit, shouldn't it?

I'd like to get these switch questions answered before I move to the next step of testing the solenoid.

Any guidance is appreciated! Thanks. Rick

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Cape Fear Scot

My grandchildren tore up my 1998 EZ GO cart over Christmas (broke the differential while driving too rough), so I've just bought a 2002 model that hasn't run in awhile. It appears to be complete and in good shape, except that the controller housing is missing (along with the run/tow switch) and the key switch is gone (wiring is there, but the switch has been removed). The seller said that the cart belonged to his grandparents, who died recently. Someone subsequently stole the charger from their house, the batteries were dead, and he sold the cart to me for cheap. He told me (and I believe him) that it was running well up until they both died a year or two ago. It has been sitting out in the weather for about a year. My plan is to use the one-year-old batteries from the broken cart to get the 2002 going again. Today I transferred the batteries over to the 2002 model, and connected everything. The backup warning beeper goes off when the reverse direction switch is engaged, but the solenoid doesn't click and there's no movement.

I put a test light across the wires for the key switch (to close the circuit) and pressed the accelerator, but still nothing happened (no click and no movement). The test light did come on when the accelerator pedal was pressed, which surprised me.

I don't understand why the backup warning beeper comes on when the key switch circuit isn't closed. Is that supposed to happen? Or has someone bypassed the key switch?

I'm also puzzled because I don't see a connector for a run/tow switch. I could install the housing and switch off my '98, but I don't see where to plug the switch in. I downloaded a 2002 service manual, and it does show a switch.

To summarize, I have two questions. 1) Is that run-tow switch necessary? And, if so, why don't a see a connector for it? 2) Since the key switch isn't there, using the test light across the terminals should close the circuit, shouldn't it?

I'd like to get these switch questions answered before I move to the next step of testing the solenoid.

Any guidance is appreciated! Thanks. Rick

That test light probably cannot pass enough current to allow the main power solenoid to engage. Until it engages, the controller does not get the power.

Bob

[Cape Fear Scot]

Bob, thanks! I'm planning to move the key switch over from the other cart. I'll let you know if that makes a difference.

I'm still wondering why the backup beeper works with no key switch. Is that a normal thing?

Also, still puzzled about the run/tow switch.

[JohnnieB]

First we have to figure out what drive system is in each cart. There are two possibilities for each model year and one is common to both so there are Series, DCS and PDS.

You say the 98 has a run/tow switch, so it is a DCS. The 2002 is either a PDS or a Series and you said it doesn't have a spot to plug in the Run/Tow switch, so that makes it a series drive.

Look a bit deeper in the manual you have, there should also be a section on series drive carts.


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The reverse beeper only draws a few mA and works over a wide range on voltage, so a test light jumpering the keyswitch would allow it to sound without lighting the test light. On the other hand, the solenoid coil draws a couple amps at startup and would light the light, but not operate the solenoid because the light is dropping the applied voltage below the mini close voltage.

[Cape Fear Scot]

Johnnie, based on the info you've provided, I did more digging. I can confirm that it's a series drive (non-PDS) cart, and I've found that section in the manual. This answers my question about the run/tow switch. I've also discovered that the seller has the keyswitch and forgot to give it to me- I'm going to retrieve it from him. Thanks- I'll let y'all know what transpires.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Cape Fear Scot

Johnnie, based on the info you've provided, I did more digging. I can confirm that it's a series drive (non-PDS) cart, and I've found that section in the manual. This answers my question about the run/tow switch. I've also discovered that the seller has the keyswitch and forgot to give it to me- I'm going to retrieve it from him. Thanks- I'll let y'all know what transpires.

That's good news. I hope everything works right once you get the keyswitch installed.

[JohnnieB]

Sorta sounds like the solenoid will click after you get the keyswitch installed (Or jumpered with a wire rather than a test light), but don't know if cart will run or not.

If it runs, great. If not, we can troubleshoot it now that we know which drive system it is.

[Cape Fear Scot]

Great news! I installed the key switch from the '98 cart and the '02 is now working. I wasn't able to get it to reverse today, but I think it's going to be just a matter of cleaning the direction switch and some terminals. Thanks very much for your help on this, Johnnie and Bob!

[Cape Fear Scot]

Got this 2002 cart going, but it seems to be at 75% power and speed. This is a good set of batteries, fully charged. They were kicking the other cart along at a good pace. This 2002 cart was out in the weather and hadn't run in several years, so I initially attributed the sluggishness to "setting up" (as we say here in the South) and the cold weather. However, it's 75 degrees today, and the speed/power isn't appreciably better. I cleaned all the battery cable connections except the ones on the motor (harder to get to). Any other suggestions?

I'm considering pulling the motor out of the other cart and installing it in this one. Is there any reason that a '98 EZGO motor won't fit a 2002?

[handtools]

"I don't understand why the backup warning beeper comes on when the key switch circuit isn't closed. Is that supposed to happen? Or has someone bypassed the key switch?"

On my '94 series drive cart the reverse beeper works when in reverse whether the key is on or off. Also the speed difference you notice is probably the series drive vs DCS, which I believe will also keep you from switching motors.