2001 TXT won’t move forward or reverse

[Meaux59]

I have a 2001 TXT. We bought the cart at a benefit raffle so none of the work was done by us. The cart is 48v but from what I’m told the cart originally from the factory was 36v. At least that’s what the dealer told me. So apparently somebody did a complete conversion. The cart all of a sudden stopped going in forward or reverse. I have read tons of threads looking for answers but none seem to prevail. The battery pack voltage is strong at around 51v. It has an Alltrax SPM 48400EZ controller. I have replaced the ITS for the throttle. I’ve replaced the main solenoid. I’ve replaced the forward and reverse switch. I continuity checked the motor and it seems fine but not sure. I also found a diagram on here to jumper the motor straight to the battery pack and bypass the controller. I did just that and the motor hauls butt so I assume there is nothing wrong. But still the cart does not move. I don’t know where to turn at this point. Hope somebody can help. Thank you ahead of time.

[JohnnieB]

Does solenoid click when pedal is pressed?

If it doesn't, the problem is in the solenoid activation circuit.

If it does, the problem is in the High current circuit.

[Meaux59]

Yes the solenoid clicks. What is meant by high current circuit. I’ve seen this in many threads. I’m a newbie to golf carts. Sorry.

[JohnnieB]

The high current circuit delivers amps from the battery pack to the motor via the controller. Solenoid contacts and F/R switch are part of it.

The solenoid clicks, so the solenoid contacts ought to be close, connecting battery pack to controller and motor.

Raise cart's rear tires off ground and put on jackstands.
Connect you DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals.
Press pedal just far enough to make solenoid click and you ought to read Full Battery Pack voltage (50.9V if fully charger).

If you don't, there is an open somewhere in the high current cables, connections or contacts. Use the positive test lead that was attached to the M- terminal to go searching for the missing voltage.

The most common problem are the F/R switch contacts, then a bad cable, then a bad solenoid.

[Meaux59]

I do not read pack voltage from B- to M-

[Meaux59]

Could you possible tell me what these two coils on the right are for. They have wires running to the forward and reverse switch.

[JohnnieB]

Looks like you have a reversing contactor rather than the stock mechanical F/R switch.

The way it works is there are two solenoids and one solenoid is energized when the F/R toggle switch is in F and the other when it is in R. Unfortunately, I don't recognize who made it and don't have a schematic or wiring diagram for it. Maybe the dealer you got the cart from might be of some help in that department. Or maybe someone looking at this thread will recognize it.

------------
not related to this problem, but the stacking order on the battery terminals is wrong. The heaviest cable goes on the studs first, followed by the ring terminals on the sequentially thinner wires.

[scottyb]

It works the same as the reversing contactors we sell. My friend Gary used to build these, I'll see if I have a diagram on this computer.

Unfortunately as we add more data we also cut old data and this diagram is not currently available..... it has been posted on this forum and should be available in the archives... GL

[Meaux59]

So I have replaced all the cables between the motor and forward and reverse coil and the controller. Cart will still not move. I’m not sure where to go from here. I have already replaced the its sensor for throttle and the main solenoid. I have also made a jumper for the motor to bypass the controller to see if the motor runs. It will run like that. Therefore I assume the motor is good. Not sure if my troubleshooting is correct to say that the problem might lie in the controller. Some more input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advanced

[JohnnieB]

Re-read my post#4.

If you do not get battery pack voltage (50+ Volts in your case) between B- and M-, the controller cannot pass amps to the motor since the battery is not connected to the controller.

The disconnect is most likely in the reversing contactor someplace.

Hopefully the main solenoid will click when the key is on and the pedal is pushed and the F/R switch is in neutral. If it does, when F/R switch is placed onto F or R, you ought to hear one of the solenoids in the reversing contactor click.

If it does so in both F and R, the problem is in the thick cables, contacts or connections.

If it doesn't, the problem is in the F/R switch or solenoid coils, or their wiring.