Trouble shooting issue with TXT series... All upgraded!

[DFW Rusty]

2001, TXT, Series, Alltrax SR 48500, 400 solenoid, HD FNR, all cables are HD, 1 year old US battery 8v batteries. Overall build is about 2 years old.


Was driving perfectly, took it for a long ride Sunday night down dirt roads then finished up the ride by trail riding on our property. Plugged it in like I always do and went to bed. Got home from work Monday and the kids and I were going to ride the cart to a friends house, loaded the kids and a cooler up, turned the key, put it in reverse, stepped on the pedal and NADA!!!!! NO MOVING, NO CLICKY, NO NOTHING...… NO LIGHTS ON THE CONTROLER!!!! DEADER THAN A DOOR NAIL!!!


Checked voltage on the batteries, 52v. Checked voltage to the FNR, 52 V, checked voltage to the controller 52V. Everything I check shows 52V. I don't have a reed switch, did away with that when I upgraded everything. I wiggled all the wires and looked for loose connections, all is tight.

What is the first step to diagnosing if it's the solenoid or the FNR. Also, what are the odds that it would work so perfectly and fail when I plugged it in for the night?

[JohnnieB]

The controller in a series cart doesn't power up until the solenoid clicks. More correctly, the voltage that makes the solenoid click also powers up the controller.

You said the reed switch is bypassed, so that narrows it down to three switches. MS-2 on the F/R assembly, the keyswitch and the pedal switch. (plus the wires and connections that connect that voltage path to the solenoid coil and controller in series.)

Here is a schematic with a SR in a series drive with the solenoid/controller activation circuit highlighted.

[DFW Rusty]

I'm pretty sure that it's not in the key switch because with the new FNR the solenoid would click with the key on and off. However, that being the easiest to check, I will check it tonight.

Is there an instructional write up or video on how to remove the throttle assembly, I bought a new foot switch a while back, but drug my feet on replacing it because it looks like I have to remove the floor board or something.

I'll see if I can dig up the instructions on the FNR installation to find the MS-2. However, once I find it, how would I actually test the MS-2?


Thanks for the help!

[kgsc]

Find the grey harness going to the pedal box over by the controller and the connectors are there for the red and green wires. Green comes from the key switch and red is coming back from the pedal switch. If green is good but red isn’t check the connector in that grey harness near the pedal

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by DFW Rusty

I'm pretty sure that it's not in the key switch because with the new FNR the solenoid would click with the key on and off. However, that being the easiest to check, I will check it tonight.

Is there an instructional write up or video on how to remove the throttle assembly, I bought a new foot switch a while back, but drug my feet on replacing it because it looks like I have to remove the floor board or something.

I'll see if I can dig up the instructions on the FNR installation to find the MS-2. However, once I find it, how would I actually test the MS-2?


Thanks for the help!

Just lift the floormat.

This one is for replacing the ITS sensor, but the pedal switch is in the same box, so getting to it is the same.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBeodtcy5rw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBeodtcy5rw

How to starts at about 1:36.

Here is an exploded view of a F/R switch assembly with MS-2 circled in red.

Use a voltmeter. When either F or R is selected there out to be battery pack voltage on both wires (In and Out).

[DFW Rusty]

Last night I finally had time to work on the cart..... After destroying my floor mats (the trim screws are rusted stuck) I was able to access the pedal switch assembly. I went ahead and swapped the ITS sensor. Didn't fix anything, then I removed the FNR (it's the reverse contactor style) and looked everything over.... nothing looked loose. I was just fixing to start monkey wrenching on the solenoid when I thought, I wonder what the innards look like on the charging receptacle.... I took it apart and lo and behold the little communication wire that lets the cart know it's plugged in to charge had broke just inside the charge receptacle...… OF course it was something that simple.... put a new spade on it and hooked it up and the golf cart is back in business.


HOWEVER, now I have a new issue. After fixing the cart it appeared to run better than it has in a while (less throttle hesitation). My kids were pretty excited and we took it for a good long ride down the dirt roads. Got back and went inside to eat dinner. Came out to go put the cart up and I put it in Reverse, pushed the throttle, solenoid went CLICK and that was it. It was very odd, I tried like 3-4 times and the last time it worked. I drove it about 10' stopped and put it in forward... same issue again. I drove it to the garage, stopped switched to reverse and took off immediately, then the same in forward.... But right before I put it up it did the issue again.

The only thing that really changed after fixing that wire was that I changed the ITS sensor, what are the chances that I have to adjust it.

[JohnnieB]

If the cart misbehaves fairly consistently, take off the seat bottom and rig up a drivers seat with boards or something to keep from sitting on the battery tops and look at the LED on the SR controller when it won't go. There should be an error code blinked.

OR, connect a laptop to the SR and record a data log while driving it.