Alignment Idiot Award - I Deserve It

[CCNorth]

Originally Posted by ThreeCW

If your wheel nuts were reasonably tight, then your camber measurement should be correct.

If the wheel nuts were sloppy and the wheel was not properly seated on the hub, your camber measurement may be out a bit.

What method are you using to measure the camber?

I ran across this video that uses a plumb bob to measure the camber ... it appears to be a pretty accurate method since a plumb bob always provides an accurate vertical reference line (as long the wind is not blowing in your work space). The calculation they show in the video is incorrect (as pointed out in one of the comments) ... you should use Sine in the formula instead of Tangent ... but at low inclinations it does not matter much.

See the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kT1eK55ZhJo

No idiot award given for this minor indiscretion ... that's part of life.

Thanks for the great link. I had to reach deep into my brain to remember that calculation.

I used the method in the service manual. I found center of the wheel and put a large framing square at that point. I used a level and a shim to level it up. Taped the shim to the floor. Was only 1/8 low on one side of garage floor. Put painters tape on floor so I would measure the same center spot each time.
I measured off the lower edge of the rim using needle calipers. The framing square was flush with the tops of both rims. Initially, the left tire was about 1/2 inch further in than the right.
Did I do it correctly using this method??

Thank you for taking my award away from me.

[CCNorth]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

I agree. If reasonably snug I think the difference will be minimal or none.

As far as the award goes, this coveted recognition will not go to CCNorth. It is reserved for those with much greater capacity and frequency for messing things up.

Reasonably snug is how I would describe them.

It's a reprieve! I'm so relieved!! I guess being a novice does have it's perks.

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by CCNorth

Reasonably snug is how I would describe them.

It's a reprieve! I'm so relieved!! I guess being a novice does have it's perks.

You know way more than most.

Please don't anyone think I am acting like a ""know it all" when I say this.

That video above is useless unless:

1) That floor is 100% level.

2) The body on that cart is 100% level with the frame.

3) The rear springs are 100% equal on both sides.

4) The same wheels/ tires equally inflated.

The best way to determine these (in an average shop/garage) things is to use a stringline front to back across the tires front to back. Of course, with the front "tracking width" being more narrow than the rear on (most) golf carts that is impossible. I would suggest using something on one tire to to eliminate this, such as a piece of wood that would widen the front stance to match the rear, which would be 1/2 the difference. Run a string to that and lock down the steering wheel. You can then determine the toe in /out. Adjust from there. Of course you run the risk of having the steering wheel thrown out of "center." You should make adjustments equally on both sides to avoid this.

I have never had a golf cart that needed adjustments to be this precise. Just thought I would throw this out to help with understanding.

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by CCNorth

Put the tires on, finger tighten lug nuts, lowered cart to the floor.

Loosened the 4 bolts that hold the leaf spring and loosened the adjustment eccentric. Used large square and calipers to check and correct the camber. It was perfect! No more right tire leaning out. Then measured and began to set toe in. Left tire still not toeing correctly. My frustration grew and I put down my tools and called it a night.

As I was walking away, it hit me! I failed to tighten the tire lugs after I took the cart off the jack stands. I can do really dumb things. Now, I get to start all over with the alignment, right?? When I tighten the lug nuts won't it effect the camber that I set??

I was starting to wonder which "moon" Moooncarter was on when he detailed his "toe in" setting procedure () then I went back and read the first post.

It turns out that both "toe in" and "camber" were discussed ... but my comments were directed to the camber question in CCNorth's last line . I can see why Mooncarter may have digressed ... but his valuable "toe in" information was provided just the same.

CCNorth - Your "camber" setting procedure sounds fine. I thought that the plumb bob procedure "could" be more accurate as it takes the "finding vertical with a level" process out of the equation ... within the limitations that Mooncarter has correctly pointed out. I always have trouble using a level to find that "exact" level point and like the way the video used the plumb bob line as the measurement reference. I think that a 2 foot level is a "good enough" tool for building a chicken coop (or a house), but wheel alignment "may" require more precision.

[Wakko47]

Many many moons ago I did suspension work on my Monte Carlo and was not able to reuse the cotter pin on the lower ball joint. "Oh, it'll hold for a little while..." It did not. Castle nut came off, suspension collapsed. Fortunately I was in the parking lot and nothing was damaged. I paid the stupid tax that day and learned a huge lesson!!

[mrgolf]

The good old stupid tax

[Bama Brad]

Originally Posted by Wakko47

Many many moons ago I did suspension work on my Monte Carlo and was not able to reuse the cotter pin on the lower ball joint. "Oh, it'll hold for a little while..." It did not. Castle nut came off, suspension collapsed. Fortunately I was in the parking lot and nothing was damaged. I paid the stupid tax that day and learned a huge lesson!!

I greased the bearings in my car one time and reused the cotter pin (new one was about 25 cents) , put everything back together. So proud that I had saved myself some money until next day going to work, had this sudden jolt and banging. Thought I had a flat right tire until I saw the wheel bouncing ahead of me. It bounced over a barbed wire fence and rolled about 20 yards into a hay field. Cost me a tow truck and paying someone to redo the job! almost went home threw all my tools away. I got the dumbA** award that day!

[Noonan]

Originally Posted by Bama Brad

I greased the bearings in my car one time and reused the cotter pin (new one was about 25 cents) , put everything back together. So proud that I had saved myself some money until next day going to work, had this sudden jolt and banging. Thought I had a flat right tire until I saw the wheel bouncing ahead of me. It bounced over a barbed wire fence and rolled about 20 yards into a hay field. Cost me a tow truck and paying someone to redo the job! almost went home threw all my tools away. I got the dumbA** award that day!

We've all been there.
Some of us once or twice.

[CCNorth]

Thanks guys! Y'all have made me feel much better.
I happy that you are still here to tell the story after those mishaps!

[CCNorth]

I think I found the problem. If not, it's someting that needs to be fixed.

After I tightened the lug nuts, that I failed to tighten before, I rechecked the camber and it needed a slight adjustment. Adjusted with no problem.

Then, moved to continue trying to correct ton-in. I had the threads on the tie rods very unequal in order to get the left tire fairly straight. Something just wasn't right.

I took the tie rods ends off the spindle and straighten the tires and steering wheel. I removed the tie rod ends to start over installing them. When I took the left one off I noticed the tie rod was veryyyy limp. The right one would stay up when I lifted it. The left would fall straight down like it had no "pressure". Obviously, something on the left side of the steering rack has failed.
Am I right to assume this "loss of pressure" on the left side is why I am unable to get the toe-in correct on that side??