1991 EZGO Marathon Rebuild

[Gonkulor]

Originally Posted by fire4034

Ok, I have everything off the frame... Finally. Looking for some opinion before I get started replacing parts.

What would you guys do with this frame? Basically what is best order to do things?

I need to replace battery trays and some support parts on frame. So do I buy batteries first so I know dimensions? I am looking to upgrade to 48v with extra batteries in bag well.

I was going to powder coat frame, but am leaning toward saving money and just painting to cover with black rustoleum? Thoughts?

Also any ideas anyone has looking at pics I would appreciate any tips I can get.

Also does pan appear salvageable in pics below or do I look for new floor piece?

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Also I am concerned that when I redo the battery tray I will not get this box that holds speed control exact as my battery tray is so corroded I can't tell where it goes exactly? Thoughts?

Frame looks OK. I see you have a twist in it as I do. Maybe it's just the picture. The floor pan should be fine.

I have recommendations and they are all only my suggestions. My advice is like any advise. Take it or leave it. I won't be offended.

I powder coated my frame. It cost me sum 300 bucks and they sand blasted it, not me.

Your frame looks to be about the same as mine when I started. What is your skillset in welding? I replaced the beam under the seats front panel. It cost me 5 bucks, labor is up to you. You might want to replace the seats front panels lower edging too.

Your frame looks pretty rusted but rust can be only on the surface.

Rust will never go away unless you remove the surface that is transforming into it. In a way that means you would have to remove all the metal. Best option is to block all oxygen from contacting the metal, you prolly know that already. Powdercoat is a great stop to rust. I also love POR15. POR15 sticks very well and is very tough against chips.

If you want to go 48V and are contemplating 6x8v batteries your fine with your tray setup. Otherwise, now is a good time to consider converting your cart to ITS. Doing that will remove all the linkage rods from the pedal and you might be able to fit 8x6v batteries in the bat box area. The only issue with that last suggestion is any interferance with your F-N-R assembly.

Your pan is prolly fine. I ground all the paint of mine and then went further to grind the corrosion off. If I had to do it again I would have used a paint stripper and then grind the found corrosion off. Your pan is covered up by the floor mat so there is no need to replace it. Unless the pan has holes in it.

These are just my observations and opinions.

Good luck
Shon

[fire4034]

What is ITS? Also do I want 6x8v or 8x6v and why? I do think 48v is worthwhile upgrade right?

[fire4034]

Ignore last post. Got my answers on that from a private message. Ok I'll update you guys on what parts I'm going with soon.

Frank

[fire4034]

Well my frame is off to sandblasting! Woo hoo! ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360957494.778690.jpg

[fire4034]

Ok guys, whole waiting for my frame to get sandblasted, I am thinking I want to clean up the front and rear end parts. Not sure how far I should go here? I am going with a jakes lift, but kind of want to year hubs apart and make sure all is ok? CN I take rear end apart and inspect without screwing anything up. I'm thinking take apart dif, check gears and rebuild? Thoughts or opinions would be great.

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[fire4034]

Error

[fire4034]

Ok newbie help needed. I am replacing rear springs as they were welded together (poorly) by previous owner. If doing 4 inch jakes lift would it be best to buy the "heavy duty" rear springs? I am also going to have rear seat so I figure the added weight would be best handled with the heavy duty springs?
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I also am trying to decide if shocks should be replaced? If so what type? I see standard factory shocks for like 25 bucks on Internet?
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Finally, I want to take apart rear diff and paint / inspect. Will I need to replace all rusted bolts on diff, and also the bolts on motor that are rusted where the wires connect?
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Looking for a little guidance and opinion here guys.

Frank

[yurtle]

Owner's, Parts, and Service Manuals:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

Dana Axle:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...5-28148g01.pdf

While you've got it taken apart, now would be a good time to replace all bearings and seals, and inspect the motor brushes, and change the oil.

[yurtle]

I wouldn't worry about the rusty bolts on your differential, unless you can't get them off.

[Gonkulor]

[quote=fire4034;839983]Ok guys, whole waiting for my frame to get sandblasted, I am thinking I want to clean up the front and rear end parts. Not sure how far I should go here? I am going with a jakes lift, but kind of want to year hubs apart and make sure all is ok? CN I take rear end apart and inspect without screwing anything up. I'm thinking take apart dif, check gears and rebuild? Thoughts or opinions would be great.

It's up to you how far you want to take your madness
I'm a maintenance type of guy and I always need to know where I am in any type of mechanical situation. It will not hurt you to pull it all apart to check the condition. Just remember to think of servicability, just because something has some wear you don't have to replace it.

Originally Posted by yurtle

Owner's, Parts, and Service Manuals:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

Dana Axle:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...5-28148g01.pdf

While you've got it taken apart, now would be a good time to replace all bearings and seals, and inspect the motor brushes, and change the oil.

Yurtle is correct. Now is the time to check it all out. But I have to add a few. If you clean a bearing up to get all the junk out of it, do not spin it. no matter what your instincts may tell you that a sound of a clean bearing spinning is good. Your damaging your bearing. Clean any bearings and repack them and then spin them while feeling for vibration. Grit feels different than corrosion or pitted damage.

If you are adding a rear seat I would suggest going with the HD rear springs. The rear is going to hop more off bumps, without extra weight in the back if your riding solo, so you have to understand the ride will be stiffer.

As far as your shocks are concerned. Cart shocks are different than a cars shocks. A cars shocks always want to extend to maximum extension. A carts shock is a true "absorber", Take your shock and pull and push on it. if there is no noise or quick action while you push or pull. your absorber is fine. What makes a cart shock bad is if you push/pull on it and there is air in it that circumvents the internals of the shock so you get 1/4" or more of easy push pull. A cart absorber always tries to cushion the up an down of a ride through an 18 hole course.

Hope that help bud.