2002 ezgo txt shuttle 6s not moving

[Classifiedinfo]

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2002 EZGO TXT Shuttle 6S that's not moving. When I bought it, it would go F and R but it was having switch was having issues because it was worn out. I bought an HD FNR switch and put it in. The cart then worked with not issues. It would go in both directions and not lose power.

Then after some time, it stopped going in Reverse. I could hear the Solenoid click but it wouldn't go in Reverse. I bought a new Solenoid and replaced it. After I replaced it and connected everything, the charge meter lit up and then died.

Through research, I figured out it was the Reed Switch. I cut it and bypassed it and then everything turned on again. However, the car still doesn't go forward or reverse.

I've poked every inch of that cart with my multimeter and can't figure out where the problem is. I have 50.1v at the solenoid, at the battery pack, at the control, etc. Nothing. I've followed the steps in the repair manual but hit a dead end.

I've even checked the pedal box. I get about close to the reference voltage +/- a couple volts.

What am I missing? Is it the motor that crapped out? I don't think it's the controller because I'm getting the battery pack voltage.

Thanks,

CI

[Classifiedinfo]

Update:

Messed with the FNR switch, tightened it up and not it goes in reverse. Still no Forward. Any ideas of what this could be?

Thanks,

CI

[JohnnieB]

If the solenoid clicks when the pedal is pushed (key turn on, etc, ready to be driven) the problem is in the high current circuit.

Connect your DVM test leads to the B- and M- terminals on the controller.
When pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click, you ought to read full battery pack voltage.

If you don't get full pack voltage, there is an open contact, cable of connector. The F/R contacts are the most likely suspects.

If you do get pack voltage, slowly press pedal to floor and the voltage ought to smoothly decrease to zero.
If it doesn't the throttle or the controller is bad.

Here is the service manual for it.

[Classifiedinfo]

Hi Johnnie,

When I connect the meter leads to B- and M-, I get full power. When I step on the accelerator it stays the same.

I tried switching the cables from A to C and now the car goes forward but when I put the FNR switch in Reverse Position.

I did the check up on the Controller from Cartsunlimited and everything checks out. The car jolts now when moving, I think it may be the ITS....

I've replaced this **** car piece by piece.

[JohnnieB]

Does the cart run forward normally (accelerates to speed) with A and C cables swapped and F/R in R?

If so the voltage between B- and M- has to be decreasing rather than staying the same.

Verify the cables on the F/R switch are wired like the attached schematic and then place both A & B on the same stud and C & D on the same stud. This bypasses F/R switch contacts and the cart ought to go forward normally.

To get it to go in reverse, connect A&D on same stud and B&C on same stud.

If cart runs normally with F/R bypassed and explained above, the F/R switch is bad.

BTW, this type cart benefits greatly from a reversing contractor. The reversing contactor is mounted close to batteries and motor, eliminating the power loss from the several feet of high current cables now going to the mechanical F/R switch. Only a low current rocker switch is located up front to select the direction.

[Classifiedinfo]

Hey Johnnie B,

I tried what you wrote. When I put the cables A/B and C/D on same studs, I get to go forward when the FNR is in Reverse only. When the FNR switch is in Forward it doesn't move.

When I switch the cables to A/D and B/C, the car goes in Reverse, only when the FNR switch is in Reverse.

The one thing I notice now is that, when you press the accelerator the car jumps into full speed. There's no "ramp up" like before. Even when you barely press it to have the solenoid click, it jolts into full speed. Do you think this could be the result of a bad ITS?

I ordered that FNR switch new from Wild About Carts on Amazon on Feb 23. They're refusing to refund or exchange the switch. So I'll have to order a new one, if that's the issue.

What is a reversing contractor? Does it replace the FNR switch? My cart has the FNR switch with the lever that goes up and down between the driver and passenger. I don't have the one that's in the front of the seat and rocks side to side.

CI

[Classifiedinfo]

Hi JohhnieB,

Can you tell me more about that contractor? I’m going to replace the FNR switch.

CI

[JohnnieB]

A reversing contactor is an electrically operated F/R switch and it replaces the mechanical F/R switch you are now using. It consists of two relays with high current contacts (aka contactor) that direct the flow of the high current through the motor's stator winding's, which determines the direction the cart travels.

The mechanical F/R switch is hard to shift and the contacts burn out if the shift lever doesn't rotate the moveable all the way into the mechanical stops. The hard to shift issue and contact alignment issue are both solved with a reversing contactor.

In a Shuttle and other long chassis carts, you get an additional benefit of a
shorter amp delivery path. In your shuttle, the are four high current cables between the mechanical F/R switch close to the driver and the rest of drive system close to the rear axle. With reversing contactor system, the high current cables are only located near the rear axle and only a few control wire go the a toggle switch near the driver.

Check them out here: http://www.cartsunlimited.net/reversing-contactors.html

[Classifiedinfo]

JohnnieB,

So this essentially removes the manual FNR switch? I don't need to buy that plus the reversing contactor, correct?

Thanks,

CI

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by Classifiedinfo

JohnnieB,

So this essentially removes the manual FNR switch? I don't need to buy that plus the reversing contactor, correct?

Thanks,

CI

I’m definitely no johnnieB, but yes, the contactor replaces the f/r switch. You do not need both.