5k-0k Throttle to 0k-5k Throttle???

[nsula_country]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

Try them (at your own risk) since nobody here has any experience with them.

I think I will. I'll be the test mule. I will buy one that can handle 48-72v. As I may go 64v or 72v in the future. This will be WAY CHEAPER than a $3000 AC kit! 500A-800A should be enough. I will also be replacing the F/R with contactors.

It will be fun!

CT

[Revolution]

I have tried Kelly controllers. I am not sold on them. See my build here.

The first one I got was dead on arrival. The second one did work till I killed it. I dropped the usb programer cable on the 72 volt solenoid positive terminal, it was my fault. If the programing port had been isolated from the pack negative it would still be alive. I don't know if my Altrax programing port is isolated or not and I am not going to try, but I would hope it is.

Kelly does over rate their stuff a bit and cheap out a little on protection circuits. I won't be trying them again any time soon. I would contact Scotty B about a controller in your price range.

[Revolution]

My other main complaint was the darn power terminals are flimsy and so close together its hard to hook up the cables.

[Revolution]

Oh And I did not care for the control input method, the screw in j-plugs with tiny wires.

[Revolution]

And how is a controller half the size and weight of of my Alltrax 7245 going to have the same output?

[nsula_country]

So should I just drop $60 bucks and take a spare Curtis 275A and stuff it full of 61A or 80A MOSFETS instead of Kelly? My batteries are only a year old. Be awhile till I need new ones. When they go I'll go 64v or 72v. The stock heatsink is the only thing I'm worried about turning a 225-275 Curtis into a 600A homebrew EV mod... Fans?

CT

[nsula_country]

I'll have to start a thread on the Curtis hop up... If it fails, I'll try Kelly, if it fails I'll buy an Alltrax SMP.

I have already taken it apart. I just have not had a desoldering exercise yet. I read a build of an EV guy that did this prior. Seems fairly simple to R&R.

CT

[Revolution]

I have purchased and still use 3 Altrax 7245 controllers one in my ClubCar XRT and two in my Bad Boy. I paid less than 400 for each one. I don't know if Scotty B can still get them at that price but he sold me two of them. The quality compared to Kelly is night and day.

72 volts X 450 amps = 32,400 watts = 43 HP not counting losses. Thats way more power than you will ever need. Obviously thats not continuous power but you get the point.

My XRT motor is only capable of pulling about 350-360 amps so its not even using the full power of the controller.

My Bad Boy will pull around 460 amps through the 450 amp controllers so the controller is limiting the motors on it slightly for peak torque, But it will still do a burnout with the front motor and lay a nice black mark with the rear.

If you just want to try hopping up the curtis, have fun. If it works great. If not I would spend my money on a proven controller like Alltrax.

[nsula_country]

I've had the Curtis apart for over a year. I'm going to buy FETs, diodes, and resistors. $60-$70 for all parts. My calculations should be close to or over 600A. I'll play with current limit before I seal it up. It may require more heat sink or fans...

The Alltrax SPM (I think) is bad a$$. I stumbled upon Kelly and they seemed to offer a lot of amps per $. I'd like 600A-800A. My current GE D377 cannot use this much, but would like to get a motor that can. Its a hobby, not money pit! At least I tell the wife this!

CT

[Sergio]

I came across the Kelly controllers a couple of years ago when I bought my cart and was researching what was available.

I always liked (on paper anyway) some the features they had. One of my favorites was the proportional Regen brake with a 0v-5v input signal.

I thought it would be cool to have a brake switch that engages before the brake pads are grabbing and provide a 25%-50% Regen brake.

You could then have a second microswitch that would engage after some pedal pressure and apply 75%-100% Regen brake. All You need is a couple of resistors to provide the proper input signal.

They have also had self calibrating throttle signals for a long time, and Regen on a Series motor which is not technically easy.

The fact that there is not much talk about them in this site may not mean much, the preference here seems to be easy plug-in controllers and not heavy electrical DIY like the EV crowd.

I personally have no respect for Chinese engineering (or lack of it), if they did a good job cloning someone's else intellect, the product may work great.

You don't need optical isolation on a golf cart application, that is only necessary on cars since nothing over 24vDC can use a chassis ground.

Since cars use chassis ground extensively, You need to have isolation of the higher voltage.

In a golf cart, accidentally dropping the +48v cable on the chassis will do nothing, so there is no requirement for that.

If You decide to use them, Please update the thread with your experience.