LED Light switch issues

[NDKoze]

I have a new 5-pin LED light switch that appears to work correctly where the LED only lights up if I turn my lights on if the car is stopped.

However, if I put the slightest bit of load on the cart by just moving the accelerator pedal enough to get the click, the LED light comes on.

This is the light that I am trying to use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wired the positive LED to Normally Open (NO) wire from the harness that came with the switch, and then connected that wire to the Positive Accessory wire for my lights. I then connected the Common to the positive load/battery wire, and the Negative LED wire to the Negative wire from my voltmeter gauge.

Like I said earlier. The switch and lights work perfectly when the accelerator is not pressed.

I had a spare 3-Pin LED toggle switch in my toolbox that I tested and that worked just fine with the same connection to the positive lights for the accord spade, positive load to the battery, and the negative from the volt meter. This switch worked fine even with the Accelerator pressed. The only problem is that the switch housing is too small for the hole in my dash.

Any thoughts on what is causing this?

I have a 2011 48V (6 8V Batts) Club Car Precedent BTW

[Sergio]

What are you using for 12v source?

If you have a 16v->12v reducer, you cannot use the negative from the voltmeter.

The only way I can imagine the pedal having any impact is if you wired something to the Controller B+ side of the solenoid.

[NDKoze]

Yes, I am currently using a 16/12 reducer. I'll be adding a 48/12 later this summer.

So, where should I be getting my negative from?

Why does it work with the 3-pin switch?

[Sergio]

Glad to hear you are switching to a 48v->12v converter.

The 16v->12v is a "low side regulation" reducer, which means that all 12v negative wires must terminate on the output of the reducer.

The black/yellow wire that feeds the voltmeter negative side goes directly to pack negative so it can measure the true pack voltage.

The positive side of your 12v accessories should be originating at the 16v connection of your pack and the reducer should be connected to the wire that comes OFF controller B-, if not, you will have other problems with that type of reducer.

Use the same negative wire that your lights are using as it should be coming OFF the reducer.

[NDKoze]

This is exactly what I needed! Thank you so much.

The 16/12 reducer was installed with the Phantom Light Kit by my local dealer when I originally got the cart. My guess is that the reducer is the standard OEM Club Car 16/12 reducer.

I am getting new batteries this week and want to get the new reducer in the next couple of weeks.

I will be adding a radio and possibly some LED lights down the road.

I have looked at a couple of the sponsors and see that they carry multiple brands/models. Considering that I already have the 16/12 reducer, do you have any suggestions on which 48/12 reducer to get based on my current reducer and above stated planned use?

Thank you again for your help.

Gregg

[NDKoze]

Originally Posted by NDKoze

This is exactly what I needed! Thank you so much.

The 16/12 reducer was installed with the Phantom Light Kit by my local dealer when I originally got the cart. My guess is that the reducer is the standard OEM Club Car 16/12 reducer.

I am getting new batteries this week and want to get the new reducer in the next couple of weeks.

I will be adding a radio and possibly some LED lights down the road.

I have looked at a couple of the sponsors and see that they carry multiple brands/models. Considering that I already have the 16/12 reducer, do you have any suggestions on which 48/12 reducer to get based on my current reducer and above stated planned use?

Thank you again for your help.

Gregg

Thanks for your help Sergio!

I was able to get the switch working as expected by hiking into the headlight ground.

Ask appears to be good to go now!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[E36Racer]

Do you guys know if I can use this switch as a direct replacement for the factory headlight switch? This is exactly what I want but I don't know the amperage rating on the factory pull switch so I need to figure out if a relay is needed. I can't source a wiring diagram for the cart since it's a new model so I don't know if the factory lights already have a switched relay or not.

[NDKoze]

Originally Posted by E36Racer

Do you guys know if I can use this switch as a direct replacement for the factory headlight switch? This is exactly what I want but I don't know the amperage rating on the factory pull switch so I need to figure out if a relay is needed. I can't source a wiring diagram for the cart since it's a new model so I don't know if the factory lights already have a switched relay or not.

I am using a factory headlight install with my Phantom Body and there has to be a relay in there, because the factory switch that replaced this one with was so tiny and flimsy 2-spade connector switch (it basically fell apart when I unscrewed it from the dash) that I cannot imagine that it was rated for anything other than activating a relay.

I am not an electronics expert by any means, but that is my thought/guess.

Hopefully Sergio or one of the other electronics experts will set us straight on the right answer.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Sergio]

That illuminated switch is only rated at 3 amps, so it definitely needs a relay if you are using halogen headlights.

You may be OK with LED headlights, but unless you measured the current, it will be close.

The 12v relays with harness are not expensive, you can find them even cheaper than these if you shop around:

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-R...dp/B017VDI0GY/