Reducer Wiring

[forkineye]

Your setup looks very similar too mine, but I decided to run everything through relays. That way you can use lighter gauge wire on your switches and share common grounds / power to them since they're not carrying large loads. For my VR remote on, I ran it to where pin 6 comes off my controller (DCS system) to the solenoid as that's where the key on signal ends up going. I'm currently only using 2 of the relays in the pic (lights and light bar). I have a heavier gauge run coming through the fuse box to up front with another relay for my horn and to provide power/ground to my 4 switches, then just 4 return wires going back to the 4 relays in the pic. I'll get a pic from behind the dash later today. As for your current key on/off issue, check the voltage on both sides of your key switch using your pack negative as ground. You may have it wired to the wrong side or are getting voltage bleeding back from the controller. For some reason, I have 6.5v on my switched side when off (coming from the controller), but it's not enough to turn my VR on. My controller has issues though. Got this cart used and the controller has a re-manufactured sticker on it.

[Sergio]

A single negative wire (18ga or better) going to the switch bank will be fine since the only current being used by that wire is for the LEDs in the switch.

If the reducer trigger wire is on the correct side of the key switch, the typical culprit of residual voltage when the key switch is OFF is a connection on the middle of the battery bank.

You should not have any accessories wired directly to a battery in your pack, they should all be wired to the converter +12v output.

Make sure you don't have any extra wires in any battery post other then pack positive and pack negative.

[forkineye]

Originally Posted by Sergio

A single negative wire (18ga or better) going to the switch bank will be fine since the only current being used by that wire is for the LEDs in the switch.

If the reducer trigger wire is on the correct side of the key switch, the typical culprit of residual voltage when the key switch is OFF is a connection on the middle of the battery bank.

You should not have any accessories wired directly to a battery in your pack, they should all be wired to the converter +12v output.

Make sure you don't have any extra wires in any battery post other then pack positive and pack negative.

Not trying to hijack the thread, but I don't have anything running off sections of the pack. The people before me though had stuff jumpered off everywhere. I ripped all their "accessory" wiring it and am completely re-doing it and all 12v stuff is running through my 35A buck converter. I did pop the controller apart since it was reman'd and all I noticed were 4 mosfets replaced. Cart also tops out at 9MPH. Motor was nasty inside but the brushes were in great shape. Cleaned it all up and turned the commutator a bit, and still 9MPH. Pretty confident something is going on in my controller. My Alltrax will be here tomorrow so I didn't bother troubleshooting it further.

[Newbuggyboy]

The yellow wire is a constant on for radio memory. Or other accessories that require power when key is off. Use that red and save the yellow.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Newbuggyboy

The yellow wire is a constant on for radio memory. Or other accessories that require power when key is off. Use that red and save the yellow.

His reducer on post #1 does not have a constant 12v output.

[Newbuggyboy]

Here are the direction.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Newbuggyboy

Here are the direction.

Correct, it does not say anything about a constant 12v output.

Where in that picture are you reading this information?

The thin red wire is the +48v trigger input.

[LSUgoTIGER]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If the reducer trigger wire is on the correct side of the key switch, the typical culprit of residual voltage when the key switch is OFF is a connection on the middle of the battery bank.

You should not have any accessories wired directly to a battery in your pack, they should all be wired to the converter +12v output.

Make sure you don't have any extra wires in any battery post other then pack positive and pack negative.

Nothing wired to any of the batteries. Just main battery cables, wires from charging port, and reducer.

[forkineye]

Originally Posted by LSUgoTIGER

Nothing wired to any of the batteries. Just main battery cables, wires from charging port, and reducer.

What voltages are you reading on each terminal of the key switch with the key turned off? Here's the back of mine where I was talking about common power and grounds for the switches. Keep in mind you'll need to use heavier gauge wire though if you aren't using relays. Wago lever nuts make for handy connections as well.

[LSUgoTIGER]

Originally Posted by forkineye

As for your current key on/off issue, check the voltage on both sides of your key switch using your pack negative as ground. You may have it wired to the wrong side or are getting voltage bleeding back from the controller.

With DVM Negative on pack negative, and positive lead at keyswitch 'ON' where I have the reducer wired in, I'm getting full pack voltage (50.7). Getting 0.0v on the off position of keyswitch.