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Old 06-30-2020, 09:28 AM   #11
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Full battery pack voltage?

Also, there could be a low battery in the DVM.

I re-read the original post, the TC-III charger has a new control board and is shutting off (Typically in the 44V to 46V range), so the probability is high that the voltmeter's reading is wrong.
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Old 07-01-2020, 02:25 PM   #12
Homey244
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Default Re: Full battery pack voltage?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
Also, there could be a low battery in the DVM.



I re-read the original post, the TC-III charger has a new control board and is shutting off (Typically in the 44V to 46V range), so the probability is high that the voltmeter's reading is wrong.
Well of doesn't have a new control board...I replaced the rectifier on the board because I thought that they were what always goes bad. I am thinking more in the control board is wrong. I am currently bypassing the board and charging manually to see what happens. What voltage should I shut off the charger. I believe 45 ?

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Old 07-01-2020, 02:38 PM   #13
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Default Re: Full battery pack voltage?

Now it is kicking the 50 (amp???) Fuse (red reset button) at around 38 volts on the battery pack while bypassing the controller board after about 10 minutes of charging. FYI the controller had always required that I push the red button to start charging. I thought this was normal. Now I am thinking it is not and that it has been jacked up all this time. Where next?

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Old 07-01-2020, 03:09 PM   #14
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Thumbs up Re: Full battery pack voltage?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Homey244 View Post
Now it is kicking the 50 (amp???) Fuse (red reset button) at around 38 volts on the battery pack while bypassing the controller board after about 10 minutes of charging. FYI the controller had always required that I push the red button to start charging. I thought this was normal. Now I am thinking it is not and that it has been jacked up all this time. Where next?

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My opinion, I would be looking for a newer charger. If the batteries have been in a low state for a while get a good charger on them and get them charged up good then worry about fixing this one. At the least get a friend to let you barrow a charger to get them up to full charge. Then at least your not going to kill the batteries.
36 volt chargers are pretty cheap depending on what you want. I have several older 36 chargers for $100.00 each. Some are the old timmer ones and a couple are auto's.
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Old 07-01-2020, 03:39 PM   #15
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Default Re: Full battery pack voltage?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Homey244 View Post
Well of doesn't have a new control board...I replaced the rectifier on the board because I thought that they were what always goes bad. I am thinking more in the control board is wrong. I am currently bypassing the board and charging manually to see what happens. What voltage should I shut off the charger. I believe 45 ?
I'd let it run until at least 46V, but stay under 49V.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Homey244 View Post
Now it is kicking the 50 (amp???) Fuse (red reset button) at around 38 volts on the battery pack while bypassing the controller board after about 10 minutes of charging. FYI the controller had always required that I push the red button to start charging. I thought this was normal. Now I am thinking it is not and that it has been jacked up all this time. Where next?
Having the reset breaker is abnormal.
It isn't popping immediately, so there isn't a dead short in the cart or charger and there is no way that charge will put out 50A, so I suspect the breaker is bad. (As thermally activated breakers age, they pop at lower amps)

Personally, I'd get a modern 36V charger, but just for the fun of it I might try bypassing the breaker and keeping an eye on the ammeter. If it pegs at the top end and stays there, I toss it in the trash.
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Old 07-01-2020, 06:04 PM   #16
Homey244
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Default Re: Full battery pack voltage?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
I'd let it run until at least 46V, but stay under 49V.





Having the reset breaker is abnormal.

It isn't popping immediately, so there isn't a dead short in the cart or charger and there is no way that charge will put out 50A, so I suspect the breaker is bad. (As thermally activated breakers age, they pop at lower amps)



Personally, I'd get a modern 36V charger, but just for the fun of it I might try bypassing the breaker and keeping an eye on the ammeter. If it pegs at the top end and stays there, I toss it in the trash.
Thank you for all the info. Great to have people with knowledge that can help. Will try this stuff out and see how it goes

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