98' F290 Stalling Even After Major Parts Replacement...

[drluv]

I've read most of the posts on this subject and still cannot identify my problem which is stalling after running flat out for 5-10 minutes in our 1998 Gas Club Car. I've replaced the fuel filters, fuel pump, rev limiter, spark plug, cleaned the tank, rebuilt the carb twice using compressed air to blow out all ports, adjusted the valves, disconnected the ground wire on the rev limiter to rule out over reving, and even replaced the pressure line from the crankcase to the fuel pump. The cart runs great for the first 3-5 miles (my disabled son drives it around our community without stoping) but then starts to stall or hesitate and then starts to run fine again until the next time.

I have not replaced the coil yet in that it does not make since to me that it would go this long before acting up and if it was the coil, I would think that it would only get worse after it got hot, etc.. And by the way, it should be more than hot after the first few minutes I would think.

The second thing is the butterfly valve shaft seems to be worn and does move side to side. However, once again, wouldn't this be a constant problem?

To make a long story short, it's starting to wear me down . Any suggestions??

drluv

[drluv]

I forgot to add, the engine when hot is still running 140-145 pounds of pressure and the spark plug is burning clean...

[fastercarter]

Try leaving the gas cap loose. A blocked gas cap will create a vacuum in the tank after a short while and cause your symptoms.

FC

[drluv]

I did try that as well and I also made sure the relief valve was working and the hoses were clear. Still no change...

[fastercarter]

How long is it down for before it restarts ? This sounds similar to the ignitor/coil going bad.

FC

[drluv]

That's the funny part, it hesitates, dies for maybe 15-30 seconds and then will run again for another 1/4 mile or more. So it would seem that maybe something is getting hot and breaking down, but why would it run for 2-3 miles at top speed before it would start doing this? It also seems to me that it could be fuel related, but like I've said, I've rebuilt and changed everything to no avail. That's why I asked about the butterfly valve stem. Could this possibly be the problem? But there again, why does it go so far before acting up??

[fastercarter]

Originally Posted by drluv

That's the funny part, it hesitates, dies for maybe 15-30 seconds and then will run again for another 1/4 mile or more. So it would seem that maybe something is getting hot and breaking down, but why would it run for 2-3 miles at top speed before it would start doing this? It also seems to me that it could be fuel related, but like I've said, I've rebuilt and changed everything to no avail. That's why I asked about the butterfly valve stem. Could this possibly be the problem? But there again, why does it go so far before acting up??

IMHO, the butterfly stem would be a constant issue. I'd be looking for an intermittent spark situation. My CC would be perfect from a start then start crapping out after a few minutes riding. Leave her for a while and all was good again for a while. I changed out the coil/ignitor and all was well again. Solved. The ignitor unit is fractious at best. The wiser heads here guided me home and all was well and now i Know better I can impart this wisdom. Get a plug spark checker and hook it up when the cart dies. I'll bet you have no spark.


FC

[JcXtreme72]

2 years ago I had a customer with the same problem and I swapped the coil and all the parts you did then he ended up paying for an FE350 swap and it STILL did it. Turned out the micro switches on the FNR switch was shorting out. I unplugged the switch and it ran perfect for days on end. I offered to replace the switch he didn't want to. He was just pleased it was up and running. Only thing is it will run in neutral as maintence mode is bypassed so you have to be careful when working on it.

[Doc's BoneCracker]

Originally Posted by JcXtreme72

2 years ago I had a customer with the same problem and I swapped the coil and all the parts you did then he ended up paying for an FE350 swap and it STILL did it. Turned out the micro switches on the FNR switch was shorting out. I unplugged the switch and it ran perfect for days on end. I offered to replace the switch he didn't want to. He was just pleased it was up and running. Only thing is it will run in neutral as maintence mode is bypassed so you have to be careful when working on it.

Is is NOT A GOOD IDEA to do and very unsafe. If you want to test the switch just unplug the backup alarm wires and plug the two wires on to that switch for testing only. then put the wires back the way you found them. But the symptoms you are describing is almost 99% the coil. I have a 96 and 2000 and both have had the same trouble last summer and this spring and it was the coil both times. I did have a switch like EXtreme is talking about go bad at the same time as the coil but I would almost bet its your coil.

[drluv]

I really appreciate the quick responses. Haven't had tome today to fool with it, probably on Monday. I did notice the other day that these engines seem to run under partial choke, i.e., there seems to be a plate that covers some of the output from the air cleaner. I haven't checked this but is it movable or stationary? What I have found is that the engine will not run when the breather hose is off and was wondering if maybe this plate is moving somehow and therefore the engine runs lean. Is this possible??