Carryall 6 refurb begins

[NoleFan4Ever]

Look here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...ift-kit-for-ds as it will meet all your needs.

or for others, here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/lift-kits

[CruiserJake]

I’m pretty sure I’d need to remove the front brakes for anything but Jakes spindle kit for the carryall. What size lift and tires do you think these are because that’s the look I want? I’m thinking 3” lift on 20” tires will give me 11.5 at the rocker which should be good for my use. 6” lift on 23 tires is 16” at the rocker which is probably too much.

[CruiserJake]

What size lift and tires do you think this one has?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by CruiserJake

I’m pretty sure I’d need to remove the front brakes for anything but Jakes spindle kit for the carryall. What size lift and tires do you think these are because that’s the look I want? I’m thinking 3” lift on 20” tires will give me 11.5 at the rocker which should be good for my use. 6” lift on 23 tires is 16” at the rocker which is probably too much.

The first 2 carts look like 10x22x8 (possibly 10", but looks smaller) The 3rd pic is at least 12" wheels and that may be a metric series tire - just not sure. Others may recognize it.

[CruiserJake]

Thanks for the info, I really appreciate the help.

Installed all new batteries, I went with locally available autocraft 8v batteries. I’ve been using their 6v batteries in my whole house ups system for over a year now with good results. I also ordered a 3” Jakes spindle lift and 20” tires, looking forward to that!

[CruiserJake]

On to the next issue...still running slow!

I’ve narrowed it down to extra resistance on the Curtis controller #2 and #3 input. I have 5k in forward with no pedal but still have 2.5 fully depressed. 10k in reverse no pedal and 7.5k fully depressed. So it seems I have an extra 2.5k resistance coming from somewhere. I’m currently tracing all wires using the wiring diagram for my 2000 carryall. Any help would be appreciated!

To make matters worse someone’s been messing around in here, lots of jumpers wires with incorrect colors.

[CruiserJake]

Looks like I might have found my problem, the pedal mount took a hit. Guess I’ll get a new mount and see if that helps. I was pressing the pedal as hard as I could and the resistance was a bit lower when I really got after it.

Edit: well that wasn’t it, seems it’s the slop in the pedal. I got it down to 1.2k ohms buy adjusting the linkage and put in a temporary shorting switch in parallel for “turbo boost” haha. I might just use the horn button on the floor if it becomes a permanent control.

Edit 2: now I see all the MCOR talk, I’ll probably cut and sleeve it.

[NoleFan4Ever]

That would pretty much have to be a faulty MCOR if the linkages are all correct with the pedal.

[CruiserJake]

I started fixing the lights and found 4 volts at the headlamp. I traced all the wires and the positive is connected to the battery with the card ground. So it should be seeing 8 volts. Following the lights system ground I found a potted box mounted to the frame inline with the ground. I figured this was a regulator so I moved the lights positive to the second to last battery and fed it 16 volts. So this is most likely how it came from the factory but to previous owner didn’t know where to connect it.

My question is weather this setup is ok or should I put a 12v battery under the seat and charge it when needed?

[NoleFan4Ever]

If that is a factory reducer mounted inside the frame rail it is a 16v to 12v reducer. That is fine and hooking it up to 16v is correct, but just so you know, even though the factory made it that way, it is not always the best. You are actually taxing those 2 batteries more than the others and generally they wear out/fail first. Definitely will not tell you that you cannot do it, but will tell you a 48v to 12v reducer is the best thing to run.