How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by tjamaco

Similar but yours is a lot nicer. This one pivots on a foot rest kind of rack that is attached to the back of the frame.

Look for your serial # to see what you have. It should be under the dash on the passenger side.

[tjamaco]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Look for your serial # to see what you have. It should be under the dash on the passenger side.

Not near the cart right now but I'm sure is an 2006 DS with an aftermarket dump bed. I seem to recall that the first part of the serial number is AQ06.

[Spoolx]

These things can be money sinks for sure..
I bought a 04 DS for $500 and thought I got a killer deal.
So far I am into it about $2200

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by tjamaco

Not near the cart right now but I'm sure is an 2006 DS with an aftermarket dump bed. I seem to recall that the first part of the serial number is AQ06.

That is correct for that era. That would be a GREAT DS IQ cart. Do whatever you need as it is a PERFECT platform.

[tjamaco]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

That is correct for that era. That would be a GREAT DS IQ cart. Do whatever you need as it is a PERFECT platform.

Thanks for the encouragement.

[Htownblue]

For about 2 K or even much less you could rebuild many major components (motor, controller, batteries, wheels and tires) depending on how fancy you want.

[yawood]

I don't know what your budget is but, given that the cart was a freebie and has no batteries, you might want to consider converting it to run on lithium batteries from the start.

It will cost you more but you have an ideal opportunity to replace anything with components that are compatible with lithium instead of just making do with what you've got. At the end you will have a much better cart that will run for a lot longer with minimal maintenance, while delivering more power, speed and torque (depending on what you do).

NoleFan4Ever, and others, can give you all the advice you need for such a conversion.

[tjamaco]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Continuity and Motor Testing:
If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms (Sepex only)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Sepex (regen) motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not.... And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

Hi Nole; Haven't been active for awhile. Life happens. But I'm back to the cart again.

I followed your directions exactly and got the beeps and no beeps. Continuity was 2.6 Ohms.

Went to the test run and the following occurred. The right rear wheel turned in a reverse direction. Swapped polarity and the right rear wheel continued in reverse direction.

Not sure of the meaning of the results. Could you point me it the right direction.