97 CC DS Upgrade - Confusion about Control Circuit

[jeff.peters]

Upgrading my 97 CC DS - Think I know what I'm doing and find out I don't. I think I have a problem with my control/activation circuit. I've installed a new series motor, 500A solenoid, Alltrax 48500, 4 gauge wires and on-board Lester Summit II. I'm using v-glide and HD F/R switch w/ one microswitch (anti-arc). I don't have any accessories. Removed OBC, charger receptacle, back-up buzzer, all lights and original wiring. Using the Alltrax diagram, I masked off the parts that don't apply to my setup. Attaching that. I have a blade fuse between the solenoid main + and KS that keeps blowing. Searched for short for hours. Need some guidance!

[Jake_Daddy]

Is the diode on the coil installed in the correct orientation? I think if it’s backwards you would get a short.

[jeff.peters]

the diode is installed correctly

[Sergio]

When does the fuse blow, just key switch ON or only after pedal down?

[jeff.peters]

I'm not sure when the fuse first blew...when nothing worked, it took me a while to ferret out which wire didn't have continuity. I replaced it with a new 20A blade fuse and tried again. This one blew only after the pedal was depressed. In the other thread I started - and I'll abandon in favor of this one - someone suggested I might have used an auto fuse w/ 32v rating. I suspect he's right. So I jumped the fuse but nothing happens. The foot switch clicks, but the solenoid doesn't activate.

[scottyb]

You shouldn't need but a 2 amp fuse in that circuit. That's not a misprint. If the diode is not on backwards it may be faulty. Disconnect one side and put a smaller fuse in the circuit.
Another possibility is the solenoid coil has a short. Rare but it happens. Pics of your installation may help us help you.

[jeff.peters]

I discovered my KS was bad. No continuity on or off. I don't have another KS or fuse. So I wired (w/o a fuse) from solenoid big + to a 120v 15A household light switch and from that switch to the blue wire running to the VGlide. I removed the diode. Hooked up the battery pack (50.3v), turned on the "key switch", put in Forward and pressed the throttle. Nothing..just a click in the V-Glide. I'll take pictures - if nothing more than to give you a chuckle - I haven't really mounted anything...just seeing if I can get the wheels to turn :-)

[jeff.peters]

Also, can you take a look at the diagram I posted when I started this thread? If wired like that, should it work? I don't want to waste your time diagnosing a problem with a wire or component if I've done something stupid.

[jeff.peters]

Here are some pics - haven't mounted anything and much of the wiring isn't true to OEM. And lots of pollen.

[Sergio]

One of the other two micro switches probably got damaged as well, trace the voltage to see if the pedal micro-switch or the FNR micro-switch got damaged.

The voltage rating on the fuse is related to galvanic isolation or voltage arcing across the burnt fuse gap and more of a consideration in medical equipment, the current rating on the fuse is not affected.