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Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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11-28-2011, 07:41 AM | #31 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
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Re: Converting Fwd/Rev lever to electrical switch
Thanks Golfdog. The cart is a 2004. I guess the thing that is confusing is all the wires that went to the 3 micro switches on the old FnR switch. Seems like most have no purpose with the new reversing contactor. Am I reading that right?
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11-28-2011, 08:15 AM | #32 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,358
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Re: Converting Fwd/Rev lever to electrical switch
You will need at least the one furthest forward on the cart, that puts power to the v-glide micro & the cart will not run without it. The middle one is the reverse buzzer and the rear one is the half speed reverse.
So it looks like you only need one to actually run. I hope this helps |
11-28-2011, 02:59 PM | #33 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 486
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Re: Converting Fwd/Rev lever to electrical switch
Quote:
(A) OLD F/R- microswitch (1) - from MCOR microswitch to Solenoid coil and Controller 1 CONVERSION - from MCOR microswitch to F/R switch terminal 2 and controller terminal 1 and solenoid coil (B) OLD F/R - microswitch (2) -from buzzer to controller B- (negative connect) CONVERSION - from F/R switch terminal 3 to buzzer (positive connect) (C) OLD F/R - microswitch (3) - from MCOR to controller 2 CONVERSION - from MCOR to F/R switch terminal 5 Hope that makes it a bit clearer. |
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11-28-2011, 04:52 PM | #34 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Panama City, FL
Posts: 1,408
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Re: Converting Fwd/Rev lever to electrical switch
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11-29-2011, 04:03 PM | #35 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
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Re: Converting Fwd/Rev lever to electrical switch
Golfdog and ScottyB - thanks for all the help. It's starting to sink in I THINK.
I took the cart apart today and mounted the new FNR Solenoid. I also went ahead and ran down the wiring based on the original wiring diagram just to try to somewhat understand how Club Cars logic works. I'm still not 100% sure on it. On an EZGO, I am so familiar that I can trace the voltage run all the way from the battery to charger receptacle to key switch to pedal switch, to selonoid, etc. I hope by the time this project is over, I can do the same on the Club Car - makes projects like this one easier if you know why you are connecting certain wires in certain places. Anyway, here is what I think I know now from your post explaining the 3 micro-switches Golfdog. Micro switch #3 has me the most confused. Couple of things about my setup. First, I have an Axe controller. Second, I am using the EZGO PDS FnR switch. For Mic Switch 1, this seems pretty simple, basically connect the White/black wire to the Green/white. From there, either run a new wire from the + coil of the main solenoid to the FnR switch (middle/main #2 connector) OR splice into the connection of the White/black and Green/White splice with a new wire and run that to the + coil of the main solenoid to the FnR switch (middle/main #2 connector). This step simply gets power to the FnR switch when the solenoid coil gets power. Micro Switch 2 - Here it seems we simply want to power the reverse buzzer when the FnR switch is moved to reverse. So, we connect the Orange and Red/white wires together to provide a negative connection to the buzzer. Then disconnect the red wire that runs from the buzzer to the solenoid positive from the solenoid and connect it to the reverse side of the FnR switch (lower switch number 3). Micro Switch 3. This one really confuses me because this wire runs from the MCOR to the conntroller #2. But, it seems you are saying we move this off of controller #2 and put it on FnR Switch #5 (not sure what that would be on the EZGO switch). I'm not sure what we are trying to achieve here. I'm also not sure what goes on controller #2 at this point. Also, it looks like for the 1/2 speed reverse, you just run a wire from the reverse side of the FnR switch (bottom, #3) to controller #4. I could actually see that in your drawing (you have probably figured out by now that I don't read drawings very well!! Thanks again for your help. I haven't cut any wires yet. I wanted to get you guys feedback first. |
11-29-2011, 04:33 PM | #36 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Panama City, FL
Posts: 1,408
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Re: Converting Fwd/Rev lever to electrical switch
buddyroe,
for the 1/2 speed reverse circuit, club car uses a resistor in series to alter the potentiometer value the controller sees. (i believe you are referring to this as the 3rd microswitch ) you can eliminate the resistor if you wish and simply use a +48V signal to the 1/2 speed reverse pin on the alltrax. (btw, 1/2 speed reverse needs to be enabled via software on the alltrax.) hope that makes sense.... -sj |
11-29-2011, 11:31 PM | #37 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
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Re: Converting Fwd/Rev lever to electrical switch
Great news. I got everything working this evening. Man, it was nice when I put that thing in FWD and pressed the throttle and it moved and then did the same in reverse. Nicest part was that no batteries exploded in my face.
I do have one more questions for you guys. It appears that when someone added the AXE controller to this cart, they did a lot of modifications for some reason. I think they also added the battery gauge at the same time. In the past, the Battery Warning light (the rectangle amber/orange color light) stayed lit constantly, as well as the battery meter. After making the changes, the orange light didn't really ever stay on. But still the meter stayed on continuously. I looked at the key switch and the battery warning orange/white wire along with the meter positive wire were both connected to the hot side (along with the green wire). This didn't seem right since this side is hot all the time. I moved these 2 wires to the key on side (with the blue wire). Is this right? Or does the orange/white wire need to be on the hot side? Thanks again. |
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