Auxilary battery or voltage converter?

[passthru]

I'm adding some Rigid Industries Dually green LED lights to my cart. I will also be mounting a road feeder (12 volt motor). We do some night driving/pig shooting. I'm trying to decide whether to go with a converter and use power off the main battery bank or install a separate battery (12 volt) in the back bag well and run the accessories off of that. The LED lights will work from 9-36 volts and the more voltage the less draw they have. The lights will run for hours on the nights we hunt using this method although I doubt it will ever be more than three to four hours maximum on any given night. I like sleep too much. The 12 volt feeder is only run for a few seconds at a time and probably won't ever run over three or four minutes on any given hunt. My concern is I don't know how much it will impact my range, especially as my battery pack ages.

[Swan]

Any extra draw on the pack will always take away from range of travel and as they get older they will go less. I run a 7th battery on mine , I rather drive home with no lights then have to push/drag it . don't know what year/model cart you have but I was able to get a marine/rv sealed deep cycle under the seat with rest of the pack.

pic of 7th battery : http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/album.php?albumid=2817

[Epb]

My next cart im going separate battery. Converters are great until they fail. Plus i like the idea of accessories just turning off when battery drains than a drain on the pack. JMO

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...pros-cons.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...e-battery.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ccesories.html

Originally Posted by crash test dummy

FYI i run an extra 12v battery here is the wiring diagram for my cart

[Rep]

Aux battery. In my Dad's sparky, we installed a motorcycle gel behind the glove box and never had a problem.

With LED's, you should get at least a half year without a recharge.

[passthru]

Well the links CTD posted also point to more folks going with aux batteries. I can easily wire the system and will probably go with a 12 volt solar panel to maintain the charge on the battery as well as an appropriate charger for the times I use it for long periods. I appreciate the input.

[sunking]

If you are going to get a converter, you need to know how it works, and you get what you pay for.

There are voltage Reducers, and there are Converters. They are not alike an dprice will be a dead giveaway.

A Reducer may be called a Converter but do not be fooled. A Converter is a Series Voltage Regulator which is fine if power is unlimited. They are easy to spot in additon to the cost, all you have to do is look at the specs. If Input Current roughly equal Output Current, ran away as fast as you can. Example they may call it a 120 watt converter stating 10 amps @ 12 volts = 120 watts. Well if input amps are 10 amps @ 48 volts = 480 watts. Catch that? 480 watts in, and 120 watts out?

A true Converter is a Power Converter or a DC - to - DC Converter using switch mode technology. So a 120 watt converter will input 48 volts @ 2.5 amps = 120 watts, and on the output is 12 volts @ 10 amps = 120 watts.

A 120 watt Reducer will cost you less than $50. A True 120 watt converter wil cost you $100+ You get what you pay for.

[Gwagon]

Originally Posted by sunking

If you are going to get a converter, you need to know how it works, and you get what you pay for.

There are voltage Reducers, and there are Converters. They are not alike an dprice will be a dead giveaway.

A Reducer may be called a Converter but do not be fooled. A Converter is a Series Voltage Regulator which is fine if power is unlimited. They are easy to spot in additon to the cost, all you have to do is look at the specs. If Input Current roughly equal Output Current, ran away as fast as you can. Example they may call it a 120 watt converter stating 10 amps @ 12 volts = 120 watts. Well if input amps are 10 amps @ 48 volts = 480 watts. Catch that? 480 watts in, and 120 watts out?

A true Converter is a Power Converter or a DC - to - DC Converter using switch mode technology. So a 120 watt converter will input 48 volts @ 2.5 amps = 120 watts, and on the output is 12 volts @ 10 amps = 120 watts.

A 120 watt Reducer will cost you less than $50. A True 120 watt converter wil cost you $100+ You get what you pay for.

Good info! So the True Converter will drain pack evenly?

Gwagon

yes .. even the cheep ones will drain your pack evenly