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Old 09-12-2017, 09:39 AM   #11
FullSpool
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Default Re: 97 club car 48v basket case project

Thanks for the info , I know the motor controller and motor is wired per the FSIP diagram and supplied diagram as I did it. The previous owner has tried to fix this leaving it a basket case. I will check every wire on it and try and find the issue.

I do have this plug you speak of.
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:12 PM   #12
joesam
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Default Re: 97 club car 48v basket case project

Hopefully the prior owner didn't accidentally let the magic-cart-driving-smoke out of that controller before handing over the reins. It doesn't have that unique burnt electrical smell does it? Did you notice that your circuit drawing shows a CVP (under floorboard potentiometer) vs the multi-step potentiometer you described? They accomplish the same thing - but it's interesting that yours has the pie shaped (multi-step) - it might have been changed because the original CVP was...uhmmm....problematic.
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Old 09-12-2017, 06:58 PM   #13
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Default Re: 97 club car 48v basket case project

Quote:
Originally Posted by joesam View Post
Lots to check when you've rewired

1) Does the main solenoid click when you turn the key, or apply go-pedal?
2) Can you measure the ohms coming from the "wiper switch" plug (actually called multi-step potentiometer). Measure ohms at it's plug (while unplugged). s/b 5K ohms at zero pedal and 0 ohms at full pedal.
3) Does your OBC work? (eg. can your charger see / start-a-charge on those batteries when charger is plugged in?). A failed OBC can lock-out your controller (if it is not working)

1. no clicking

2. measures 0 at stop scales up to 4.9k ohms , then 0 at full throttle.

3. I have no charger or batteries in the cart. testing with 4 car batteries.
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:13 PM   #14
FullSpool
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Default Re: 97 club car 48v basket case project

I don't smell any smoke or see any evidence of smoked components .

I tested the motor and it spins with 48v applied to it directly, I am still tracing wires but I dont see anything wrong thus far. If I unplug the controller the buzzer only goes off in the R position so maybe something is going on in the controller?
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Old 09-12-2017, 10:05 PM   #15
joesam
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Default Re: 97 club car 48v basket case project

Sorry - was working late - I'm not one of the real experts but here goes...

1) your multi step pot s/b 0-5k not 0-5-0 so there is something wrong at the top of your wiper arm (pulling away or missing last contact?) which will need resolving. But the cart would operate until floored - so that's not the real problem.

2) No charger? Not sure how you determine your OBC function without a charger - I'm sure there is a bypass procedure for that harness (Regen-1) - but given the non OEM controller, I think it would take a smart guy like Sergio to tell you which wires to jumper/bypass.

3) No clicking - that's job 1. With the rocker in "F" / key on, and stepping on the pedal (3/4 pedal for you because your weird zero ohms when floored) your main solenoid HAS to click (the controller provides the current). You can test your solenoid by artificially/ separately applying 48v to the small terminals (just in case it's a dud). When 48v applied, the big terminal posts should "close" and show full continuity across them.

4) Backup buzzer works properly in "R" but only when controller is unplugged. That (to me) is the most concerning. In Regen 1 the buzzer is a simple circuit between the rocker and the buzzer. The controller should not interfere in its operation REGARDLESS unless something from the controller is contributing current to it. Either due to mis-wiring or possibly a failure within that controller. Although someone in a higher pay grade on this forum should confirm my concerns. Because it's non-OEM, I think a call to FSIP is in order and you should describe what you are experiencing with interaction between reverse buzzer and controller.

Thats about all I can think to offer at this stage - fix the zero-top position on the potentiometer, apply simple voltage to your solenoid to confirm it's operation...bypass the OBC lockout (you may be able to search Regen 1 and bypass obc on the forum and find the process). But the weird controller/buzzing has me stymied.
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:31 PM   #16
FullSpool
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Default Re: 97 club car 48v basket case project

well I fixed the buzzer issue , it was wired wrong. I made a video of its current state . About to throw in the towel and part it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KA3E5IHAaFI
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:29 PM   #17
joesam
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Default Re: 97 club car 48v basket case project

With that newer version controller (assuming it's working or fixable...because FSIP does repair them), you've got the "makings" of a decent/reliable cart. I wish I knew more about that controller specifically. From what I could see in the video..
1) you have power to the solenoid (key on I presume) and the mystery reverse buzzer got resolved with a wiring fix.

2) I didn't hear the solenoid click although it appears to have power- does it click with key turn - or with pedal depressed? Or neither? Or did it click when the controller was powered up before anything else was "touched"?

3) In re-reading one of your replies - you implied seeing zero at pedal up and climbed to 5K (forget the sudden 0 at the end). But if that's true you have something backwards. A '97 cart is supposed to start at 5K and DIMINISH to zero. Can you double check that? Is it possible the former owner just put that in - and bought one of the (pre '95) multi-step pots which (back then) were built "backwards" putting out zero to 5K?

4) I'm going to search the forum for obc bypass on '96 / '97 Regen 1. A failed OBC (part of the charger circuit) will completely disable the controller, to prevent owners from driving off with the charger plugged in. Trouble is - if it's failed - Its telling your controller that someone is trying to drive away while charging. So nothing happens.

There! You've got some other stuff to chase, while I try to research exactly how to bypass OBC in Regen 1 to overcome the OBC safety circuit...

Don't give up! - it's just getting interesting. Some of the most qualified people who are on this forum normally, are dealing with some of Irma's impact so your stuck with my random/amateur thoughts and ramblings until they find their way back here.
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:41 PM   #18
joesam
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Default Re: 97 club car 48v basket case project

THIS THREAD isn't OBC bypass - but has a '96 cart with (what I think is) your FSIP controller install.
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:53 PM   #19
joesam
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Default Re: 97 club car 48v basket case project

HERE IT IS - read Sergio's post #9 to bypass the OBC lockout on a Regen 1 - He refer's to the Regen 1 as
Quote:
an oddball one we did not talk about. You need to disconnect the yellow wire bullet connector #19 in the diagram near the controller.

You will then run that wire from the controller directly to Controller N or Pack Negative.
. Go to that thread - there's a diagram - thats the one you should follow.
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Old 09-14-2017, 05:58 AM   #20
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Default Re: 97 club car 48v basket case project

There is a discrepancy between the cart and the wiring diagram used, not sure how much has been modified or which is correct.

The Regen-1 Z-plug has 2 rows of pins (14-pins).

The Regen-2 connector has 3 rows of pins (23 pins).

The Regen-1 FNR uses a DPDT switch (5 terminals have wires).

The Regen-2 FNR uses a SPDT switch (3 terminals have wires).

The Regen-1 OBC provides a negative connection to the Controller (Yellow wire) when charger is not connected.

The Regen-2 OBC powers the logic system +48v (blue wire) when charger is not connected.

The PDF you provided on the beginning of the thread shows a Regen-2 conversion.

If Your buzzer is connected to the FNR, then you have a Regen-1 cart.

How many rows of pins are on the original connector from the harness to the Controller?

Also, that 0 reading (0L I assume) you got on the throttle likely means you have no throttle signal at all.

Measure the resistance between the White/black stripe and the Purple wires at the MultiStep Potentiometer.

If You get 0L, you need to take the cover off the back of the Multi-Step assembly and fix/replace the bad resistors.




Please note that "0L" is what you get when the meter probes are not touching each other (infinite resistance or Open Line).

If You touch the probes together, the meter shows "0" (short or continuity).
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