2000 EZGO TXT Shuttle how to test controller

[georgia088]

Hello all.

I wound up getting the project 2000 EZGO TXT Shuttle 2+2. Serial No 12432220 that I asked about in a previous post. I went ahead and put brand new batteries in it. So.... Here is where I am.

I disconnected the battery back from everything else. I jumped a wire from A2 to S1 and then connected jumper cables from a 12v battery (+) to S2 and (-) to A1. There was a spark, but the motor did nothing at all. I was under the impression the motor should spin in this configuration if the motor is good.

So, I am assuming the motor is bad??

Next, is there a way of testing the controller if the motor is bad?

Thanks!

[yurtle]

I've never done this test. Is yours a series cart/motor? If so, you may want to try with 16 or 18 volts (6v or 8v batteries).

If it's a SepEx, the rotor and stator are connected in parallel, not series.

[georgia088]

From my understanding it is a series motor. I still don't understand how to test to see if controller is bad. Any ideas?

Thanks!

[yurtle]

Here are the manuals I use for my '98 series TXT. I think Shuttles' controllers are different, but in absence of a proper manual, maybe this will be adequate:

Owners Manual for some newer electric carts
http://products.jacobsen.com/img/man...645-g01-gb.pdf

Technician's service and repair manual electric carts
http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/28646.pdf

Service Parts Manuals electric carts
http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/28789-g01.pdf

The Technicians service and repair manual has a whole chapter with a step by step flow chart. Chapter E.

Have you tried the motor test at higher voltage yet? You can also try and ohm out rotor and stator, and rotor to stator and both to case. Maybe you'll get lucky and just need brushes, since it apparently did nothing at 12 volts.

[georgia088]

I haven't done the ohm test. Could you explain or link me to how to do it?

Thanks for all of your help!

[georgia088]

This test?

There should be continuity between A1 & A2, and between S1 & S2 (F1 & F2 on a regen motor). You should have no continuity from A1 to the motor body, or S1(F1) to the motor body, or between A1 and S1 (F1).

If so, it checks out like it should. What does this mean?

Thanks again

[yurtle]

You should get continuity, low ohms between the two rotor studs. Same for stator studs. Ideally you'll get open circuit, infinite ohms, between rotor and stator and both to case, but in the real world there will be some. They should be high though. Lack of rotor continuity would probably mean brushes or dirty commutator, which are both relatively easy to fix and are in chapter H.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by georgia088

This test?

There should be continuity between A1 & A2, and between S1 & S2 (F1 & F2 on a regen motor). You should have no continuity from A1 to the motor body, or S1(F1) to the motor body, or between A1 and S1 (F1).

Thanks again

Yep. However you will always get some reading between rotor and stator and case, due to the fact that the brushes are soft and conductive. As they wear, they cover everything with a conductive dust. Hopefully you're in kilo-ohms if not meg-ohms.

[georgia088]

Ok, I did it and everything test as it should. What does this mean?

Thanks!

[yurtle]

Might mean you should try the test again with higher voltage, either three 6 volt batteries or two 8 volt batteries. No need to disconnect any cables, other than the ones on the motor.

You are doing this with motor installed on rear and aren't you?