Is a fuse block needed?

[Pitzer's Custom Carts]

I just started getting into the buying, accessorizing, and selling of golf carts. I am working on a cart now which has street legal LED light kit, a JVC radio, and USB charging outlets which individually run off of 12v.

I purchased a 30amp 48v/36v ---> 12v voltage reducer for the accessories.

Currently I have the positive(red) and the negative(black) wires from the the reducer hooked to the positive and negative terminals of the 36v circuit.

I then have placed a lever nut wire connector to the positive (yellow wire) and the negative (black wire) for the accessories. The positive wires for the radio, lights, and usb port are connected to the lever nut to the yellow(positive) wire and the negative wires for the radio, lights, and usb port are connected to the lever nut to the black(negative) wire.

I have used all three accessories at the same time while operating the cart and have not run into any issues as of yet.

In my case, do I need a fuse block?????

Hopefully this all made sense. Thanks in advance for the help!!

[mikec557]

Pitzer

"need" is a relative term. As you can see, each can have its own power line and an individual fuse and all go to the one battery post, and it will work fine. But is it elegant? Maybe not. If you're starting a side business fixing up carts for resale, I think I would use a fuse block. I think it would look more professional.

So, "need", no. (provided each has its own inline fuse.) But if I were a buyer and lifted up the seat to look under the hood as it were, I'd be more impressed with a neat wiring job which I think the fuse block would give you.

But that's just my taste. What do you think your customers might think?

Mike

[orangeman6]

The led lights and the usb charger don’t draw many amps. How much they do draw will be in the spec sheet. The info for the JVC will be in there too. You’re most likely fine, but it’s good to know.

As for the fuse block, I don’t think it’s optional at all. The inline fuse for the stereo is usually just a few inches from the back of the unit. Who wants to pull the thing out to access it? The usb charger probably didn’t have one. Run the 12v out of the reducer to a marine fuse block, then run the positives to each accessory from a separate fuse on the block. Use a buss bar for the negatives.

Personally, and I mean no offense, if I lifted the seat and saw that, I’d walk. I’d be wondering where else you tried to save a few dollars and a few minutes cutting corners.

[bronsonj]

Also know you don't "ground" anything to the frame. The power goes to the fuse box and the grounds go to a ground distribution box. If you get a marine one they usually have both built into a single unit for you.

[worleytech]

Got a 2001 EzGo TXT 36V last summer.
Swapped out the dead batteries.
Added a fuse for the 12V circuit (which came from 2 batteries.)
And a terminal strip for future expansion.
Added a LED voltmeter and added a fuse for the 36V circuit.
(Hate the LED in sunlight, can't see it)
As an electrician 43+ years I would rather see a fuse or breaker pop than have wires smoking under my seat from any physical damage to the wire insulation.
I even added a 250A fuse to the controller to maybe help protect it from surges or shorted motor. (Maybe overkill?)

[jakesnake27]

Originally Posted by worleytech

I even added a 250A fuse to the controller to maybe help protect it from surges or shorted motor. (Maybe overkill?)

Not overkill, most controller manufacturers recommend them