2010 EZGO RXV won’t move. Help please!

[SilverRXV]

I need some help! I have a 2010 ezgo RXV. In the past I have replaced the solenoid, the motor break, and I have upgraded the battery to a 7 leaf Nissan Leaf lithium battery. I have my digital volt meter wired to my solenoid so that it only turns on when I turn my key on. The cart has been running perfect until about two weeks ago I was riding it in my neighborhood and I came to a stop and for out for about 30 minutes but left the key on “forward”. After I got back in the cart the cart would not move and my voltage meter was reading very low. I had to turn the cart off and on a bunch of times, each time the volt meter slowly went up in voltage but never met the ~58 volts it usually reaches immediately when I turn the key. After a while the meter showed the full 58 volts and the cart worked perfect again. Since then the cart has been working great for weeks until today. Today the same thing happened. I backed my cart out if my garage and left it in neutral for about 15 minutes. When I got back on the cart the voltage meter was low and when I tried to put the cart in forward or reverse the cart would not do anything. (On a normal day as soon as the carts key is tuned my volt meter jumps immediately to 58 volts.) Now when I turn the key the volt meter looks like it is slowly building up from zero to only ~30 volts and I never hear the usual “click” that I hear when I turn the key on. I read online to remove my voltage reducer so I did that and now the cart slowly builds up from zero to about 53 volts but still no click and the cart still won’t move! I know this is a lot of text I’m just trying to paint a clear picture. Please any help would be greatly appreciated!

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by SilverRXV

I need some help! I have a 2010 ezgo RXV. In the past I have replaced the solenoid, the motor break, and I have upgraded the battery to a 7 leaf Nissan Leaf lithium battery. I have my digital volt meter wired to my solenoid so that it only turns on when I turn my key on. The cart has been running perfect until about two weeks ago I was riding it in my neighborhood and I came to a stop and for out for about 30 minutes but left the key on “forward”. After I got back in the cart the cart would not move and my voltage meter was reading very low. I had to turn the cart off and on a bunch of times, each time the volt meter slowly went up in voltage but never met the ~58 volts it usually reaches immediately when I turn the key. After a while the meter showed the full 58 volts and the cart worked perfect again. Since then the cart has been working great for weeks until today. Today the same thing happened. I backed my cart out if my garage and left it in neutral for about 15 minutes. When I got back on the cart the voltage meter was low and when I tried to put the cart in forward or reverse the cart would not do anything. (On a normal day as soon as the carts key is tuned my volt meter jumps immediately to 58 volts.) Now when I turn the key the volt meter looks like it is slowly building up from zero to only ~30 volts and I never hear the usual “click” that I hear when I turn the key on. I read online to remove my voltage reducer so I did that and now the cart slowly builds up from zero to about 53 volts but still no click and the cart still won’t move! I know this is a lot of text I’m just trying to paint a clear picture. Please any help would be greatly appreciated!

The solenoid used on 2010 RXVs is already underrated for the RXV needs, adding the higher voltage of a lithium pack will doom it to coil overheat failure. The Danaher does not regulate the solenoid output as well as the later Curtis does. There is no voltage compensation setting to regulate output voltages to the accessories like the Curtis has.

[SilverRXV]

Thanks for the reply, how can I be sure that the solenoid is the issue? I purchased an aftermarket solenoid not long after I got the cart a few years ago so it is not the factory one. Last night I searched how to test the solenoid and when checking ohms on the two larger studs I’m getting the (1) or (OL) aka “open loop” reading. And then when I check the dc voltage between the two small posts I’m getting 0 volts while the key is off and also zero volts AND no solenoid “click” when I turn the key in and accelerate the gas pedal. Can I assume with this results that the solenoid is bad? Thanks for the help!

[SilverRXV]

Update on the issue....I put an ezgo txt solenoid in my RXV that a buddy had laying around. The cart is up and running again. I plan to upgrade the solenoid to a 400a to avoid this issue happening again!

[nickdalzell1]

You want to use the 36V (yes it is supposed to be a 36V Thombetta) solenoid not a third-party or 48V rated one from a TXT. They're extremely picky about the solenoid. Diversion from the procedure ends up letting out the magic smoke from the controller.

The under-rated one mentioned is the tiny little thing that was installed from OEM from 2008-2011 (latest I've seen one) that looks like a 12V solenoid from a gas TXT/RXV. The more stable one used is a 36V Thombetta used in every RXV since and is recommended in any RXV using that smaller one.