04 Precedent Won't Go

[Bnrchops]

I have been reading through alot of posts here and tried a bunch of tests, but can't seem to find a completely similar situation.

cart is a 2004 club car precedent - s/n pq0439-xxxxxx, obc - lester 24285-02 ver 2.05 102511001, controller - curtis 1510-5201 48v 250a. purchased used in the fall, cart drove fine, sticky pedal fixed with wd-40. added rear seat kit and headlight/tailights. still drove. Removed the batteries to clean out the tray and when reconnecting the cables, sparked and now won't drive.

I have tried replacing the solenoid and mcor, no change with either/both, original parts went back in. charger will kick on and charge system. reading voltage across charger port pins, pos and neg = 48v, pos and sense gets around 37v. reverse buzzer works, when in run, not in tow. all 4 batteries read 12+volts each. 15a fuse is fine. when i push on the pedal, mcor clicks, but not the solenoid.

How do I know if it is the OBC, controller, etc. I'm hoping there is a simple fix, but i fear i fried something.

Thank you in advance!

[TahoeDawgZ71]

In order for the controller to make the solenoid click, it has to receive certain signals from the rest of the car. It has to have power to the following pins, which you can check with a multimeter...

1. Tan (Pin 10) - 48V+ with Key switch ON
2. Grey (Pin 9) - 48V+ with TOW/RUN Switch in RUN

3. Brown (Pin - 48V+ with F&R switch in REVERSE
OR
Blue (Pin 16) - 48V+ with F&R switch in FORWARD

4. Green (Pin 6) - 48V+ with Key ON, F&R Switch in either position, and accelerator pedal depressed)

If you're getting power at all four of these places, the controller is bad. If you're missing power at any of these places, post info here and we'll point you in the right direction.

[Bnrchops]

Thanks! Followed your testing points and here's what I got.

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

In order for the controller to make the solenoid click, it has to receive certain signals from the rest of the car. It has to have power to the following pins, which you can check with a multimeter...

1. Tan (Pin 10) - 48V+ with Key switch ON did not get 48 v, only read in mv
2. Grey (Pin 9) - 48V+ with TOW/RUN Switch in RUN48v

3. Brown (Pin - 48V+ with F&R switch in REVERSE48v
OR
Blue (Pin 16) - 48V+ with F&R switch in FORWARD48v

4. Green (Pin 6) - 48V+ with Key ON, F&R Switch in either position, and accelerator pedal depressed)did not get 48v, but started at 0 did get slight increase with press of pedal.

If you're getting power at all four of these places, the controller is bad. If you're missing power at any of these places, post info here and we'll point you in the right direction.

thinking/hoping that this gives me a direction other than the controller could it be the key switch? can that just be jumped, or are there other components in the key module that are required?

any thoughts on the difference in the charge port readings, gray/red 10v less than black/red?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Check for voltage coming out the Blue wire at the key switch. If good, go down to the sonic weld where it crimps with another blue, a light blue and a tan wire. The tan wire could have broken lose or had a failure at the sonic weld.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Pull the forward/reverse switch out of the housing and check for power at the orange (probably red on your model) wire that feeds the center pin of the switch.

[Bnrchops]

Apparently the connection on the back of the key cylinder was just barely making a connection. Replaced with a temp switch and were driving again. Thank you both for your help!

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Bnrchops

Apparently the connection on the back of the key cylinder was just barely making a connection. Replaced with a temp switch and were driving again. Thank you both for your help!

[NoleFan4Ever]

Glad to help....