Another Reed Switch bypass

[Skydivertony]

I don't usually post, just read. And I don't usually work on electric carts. I have a 1992 36v golf cart. There is no charge port but has 6 brand new 6v batteries. I'll post a couple pics I downloaded from here. Can anyone tell me where the red wire goes? It doesn't appear to be in this wiring diagram. I'm assuming to a micro switch, but which one and which side?
Solenoid clicks but only 24v between controller B+ and M1 with key on and pedal depressed.

[JohnnieB]

1992 was before the reed switch era. The red wire that feeds the keyswitch is connected directly to the battery pack (BL+ terminal)

As for only 24V out of the controller, check the potbox throttle. Should vary from about 0Ω to about 5000Ω when F/R is in Forward and about half that when in reverse.

[Skydivertony]

Maybe this cart that I am working on is wired wide open? I don't see a potentiometer (under the micro switch circled in blue?) between the controller and the micro switch (red line). I'll attach a pic and see if anyone can tell me wth is going on.

[JohnnieB]

The potentiometer is inside the metal box the circled switch is mounted on.

Here's a parts manual for your cart and potbox is item #59 on page R-1.

Also attached is section N of a service manual for 90 to 95 Marathons with electronic speed controllers. Drawing on page N-12 isn't as cluttered. Also has some troubleshooting and adjusting info.

[Skydivertony]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The potentiometer is inside the metal box the circled switch is mounted on.

Here's a parts manual for your cart and potbox is item #59 on page R-1.

Also attached is section N of a service manual for 90 to 95 Marathons with electronic speed controllers. Drawing on page N-12 isn't as cluttered. Also has some troubleshooting and adjusting info.

Thank you for the info. This cart has been rewired and did run at one time before the batteries and such were removed to weld the battery trays in. I'll use this info to make it right

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Skydivertony

Thank you for the info. This cart has been rewired and did run at one time before the batteries and such were removed to weld the battery trays in. I'll use this info to make it right

Sounds like a plan.

Noticed your nym. Can't do it anymore due to medical reasons, but I've jumped several times in the past. Hop and pop mostly, I like the view from up there and prefer the longer ride.

[Skydivertony]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Sounds like a plan.

Noticed your nym. Can't do it anymore due to medical reasons, but I've jumped several times in the past. Hop and pop mostly, I like the view from up there and prefer the longer ride.

I'm too old to jump anymore. I am a retired instructor. Started late in life and dedicated ten years to the sport. Just under 1,500 skydives.
Back on the subject ... this pot is open at 4.66 K ohms all the time on the one wire, regardless of pedal position, and circuit complete on the other. The wires are different colors than the diagram but wired correctly. Now I will take the pot off and see what happened.
I'm guessing that 5000 ohms is "no throttle".

[sthreatt]

See if the pot box has 2 different pigtails coming out of it with only one being used. Some of them have two different ranges of resistance available depending on which you plug up. The last one I probed read 0 to 5K on one lead and if I remember correctly, 5K to 10K on the other.

[JohnnieB]

Disconnect the black and white wires from the controller and connect your Ohmmeter between the two loose wires.

You should get about 0Ω with pedal up and about 5000Ω with pedal on floor with F/R selector in F and from about 0Ω up to about 2500Ω with F/R in R.

Press the pedal slowly and the Ohms ought to increase smoothly. It is hard to see with a digital Ohmmeter, but a noisy pot will cause erratic operation.

Also, if the Ohmic value ever exceeds about 7000Ω, the controller shuts down.

[Skydivertony]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Disconnect the black and white wires from the controller and connect your Ohmmeter between the two loose wires.

You should get about 0Ω with pedal up and about 5000Ω with pedal on floor with F/R selector in F and from about 0Ω up to about 2500Ω with F/R in R.

Press the pedal slowly and the Ohms ought to increase smoothly. It is hard to see with a digital Ohmmeter, but a noisy pot will cause erratic operation.

Also, if the Ohmic value ever exceeds about 7000Ω, the controller shuts down.

Did this and the pot is working as it should. I suspect the motor and here is why...
With all the wires connected to everything
I hook volt meter between B+ and A2
Key on, pedal depressed - 0 volts
I take the (traced red) A2 wire off of the controller and hook everything else back up (eliminating the motor from the circuit, I believe)
Key on, pedal depressed - 36 volts between B+ and A2