2000 EZGO TXT 36V Solenoid Clicks

[kuebcookies]

Test from M- to B- resulted in 36v with pedal up. 38.1v with pedal depressed enough for solenoid to click. And when I continued to push pedal all the way down it stays at 38.1v.

Testing from B+ to small solenoid stud with red wires resulted in 36v with pedal up. Drops to .5 with pedal depressed.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by kuebcookies

Test from M- to B- resulted in 36v with pedal up. 38.1v with pedal depressed enough for solenoid to click. And when I continued to push pedal all the way down it stays at 38.1v.

Testing from B+ to small solenoid stud with red wires resulted in 36v with pedal up. Drops to .5 with pedal depressed.

That indicated the high amps circuit is intact, but wither the throttle or controller is bad. Your ITS voltages given in an earlier post were good, so the controller is very likely to be bad.

[kuebcookies]

I did some testing on the motor while waiting to hear back. I think I was measuring between contacts on motor previously not really thinking. With black probe on battery positive, all 4 of the motor studs show 36v with the pedal up and go to 38.1 when pedal is depressed. My mind says ok power is getting the the motor. (Thought it wasn’t before) So I connected S1 to A2 and then positive from 12v jump pack on S2 and negative on A1. Motor turned fine. Tested good. I’m at a loss. Any more thoughts?

[JohnnieB]

Unless otherwise stipulated, all voltage measurements should be made with negative test lead (black) connected to the battery pack's main negative terminal.

B+ is connected to the motor and B- is supplied via the controller, so referencing your voltmeter to B+ usually ends up with a prolonged non-productive period of tail chasing.

[kuebcookies]

I misspoke when I said battery positive. I meant to write with black probe on battery negative. Meaning main negative terminal. Sorry for the confusion.

[kuebcookies]

I’m sure I’m missing or not understanding something, but how can I have voltage to all 4 studs on the motor and it doesn’t turn , but when I test by jumping and using 12v source, the motor and tires turn. JohnnieB are you still thinking the controller needs to be replaced?

Thinking more on when this happened on the hill, I was pulling a small garden wagon and just barely moving up the hill almost at a stop but with foot on gas. Was just taking it nice and easy. I read another post from years ago with a similar thing but never saw the solution.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by kuebcookies

I’m sure I’m missing or not understanding something, but how can I have voltage to all 4 studs on the motor and it doesn’t turn , but when I test by jumping and using 12v source, the motor and tires turn. JohnnieB are you still thinking the controller needs to be replaced?

Thinking more on when this happened on the hill, I was pulling a small garden wagon and just barely moving up the hill almost at a stop but with foot on gas. Was just taking it nice and easy. I read another post from years ago with a similar thing but never saw the solution.

Having voltage on the motor studs only indicates the motor is connected to the battery and all four studs having the same full (or almost full) battery pack voltage on them indicates there are no (or very few) amps flowing. Amps are what a motor converts to motion (and heat).

You get full battery pack voltage between B- and M- when the solenoid clicks. That voltage does not decrease as pedal is pushed to the floor, so the the controller's speed control electronic valve (MOSFETs located between B- and M-) is not opening up and passing amps through the motor's windings. Two most likely probabilities are bad throttle or bad controller. The throttles voltages you gave were within specs, so the controller is being told to pass amps to the motor, but it is not doing what it is being told to do, therefore the controller is bad.

Based on the B- to M- and ITS voltage readings you have provided, I'm about 99.9% certain the controller is bad and the only reason I'm not 100% certain is I've been troubleshooting electronic and electromechanical stuff for over 60 years and have painfully learned there are no absolutes while troubleshoot electrical stuff.

If it was my cart, I'd recheck my pertinent voltage readings (B- to M- & ITS throttle) and if they came up the same again, I'd replace the controller at this point.

Personally, I'd replace it with an Alltrax SR48400 (or larger) controller and upgrade the solenoid to 200A or more.

[kuebcookies]

Thanks for your help. I did those test multiple times so I do believe it is the controller. I found a company that repairs these controllers for a reasonable price. About $100 after shipping both ways. I would prefer to do this to keep the cost low considering it's an older cart and I haven't put much in it. Just need it to function like it should. Not really interested in Upgrades.

Does anyone has experience with getting them repaired? Any negative to this?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by kuebcookies

Thanks for your help. I did those test multiple times so I do believe it is the controller. I found a company that repairs these controllers for a reasonable price. About $100 after shipping both ways. I would prefer to do this to keep the cost low considering it's an older cart and I haven't put much in it. Just need it to function like it should. Not really interested in Upgrades.

Does anyone has experience with getting them repaired? Any negative to this?

Repaired, rebuilt, remanufactured all mean the same thing, just the failed parts have been replaced, so the remaining parts have the same number of hours used as the failed parts had before they failed and it is only a matter of time until one or more of the original parts will fail. Of course, the amount of time before the next failure could be years, or it could be days. In other words it is a ticking time bomb.

Rebuilt controllers are what people that flip carts use to make a quick buck.

If you go with a rebuilt controller, try to find the longest warranty.

[kuebcookies]

I took the controller off this evening. Something is rattling around inside. I’ve never messed with one before but I’m assuming that isn’t a good sign…