Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

[northon11]

Originally Posted by shadowman

its to late for that.....if the box your talking about is say 4 inches wide by 8 to 10 or so long with cables and wires going to it thats the controller and if so you smoked it.........soleniod has 2 big post with cables and a few small wires and 2 little bitty post with wires going to it......the area this box is in sounds like the controller.......you always have to PUT IT IN TOW before you work on it.......i,m thinking now you burnt up your controller and that would make sense.......................................

Thank you for your help! We will check when we get back about the size, but from what you are saying it sounds like the controller. Any suggestions on how to track down a new one - we googled some that look like upgrades- which we don't think that is where we want to go - just replace what we have now.

Wish the dealer had mentioned putting it in tow when disconnecting - he was so helpful with other instructions?! Well we will just have to Chalk this upti a lesson learned - we thought the kit went into too easily!

Thanks again!

[shadowman]

talk with scottyb here on the site.....you won,t go wrong.......try calling the dealer in the middle of a holiday...............lol................check with scotty..........................

[northon11]

Originally Posted by shadowman

its to late for that.....if the box your talking about is say 4 inches wide by 8 to 10 or so long with cables and wires going to it thats the controller and if so you smoked it.........soleniod has 2 big post with cables and a few small wires and 2 little bitty post with wires going to it......the area this box is in sounds like the controller.......you always have to PUT IT IN TOW before you work on it.......i,m thinking now you burnt up your controller and that would make sense.......................................

To update - we were able to take a couple of photos - not the greatest - but from the description above it is the solenoid. It is a small black box with the 2 big posts with cables on the top. It has a white sticker on the front. In the first photo it is in the middle of the screen. The second photo is taken from the top.

We tried to reconnect the batteries in tow to charge up the batteries. When you put the cart in reverse - you can hear the back up buzzer, but the wheels do not turn. It does nothing in forward. The charge light is on. We can't charge it until the issues is resolved - even in tow - as you could smell the plastic after a couple of minutes. There is also a u shape coming out of the front of the solenoid - and it was quite hot to the touch. As we said before there isn't any signs of burnt - just the smell. If the controller was toast - would it cause the solenoid to heat up?

[scottyb]

A fried controller could cause the that solenoid to heat up because it has a built in pre-charge resistor.
It would be best if you could bench test the solenoid.... it doesn't have to be out of the cart but disconnect the big cable from the controller. Bring positive and negative to the 2 small posts (preferably without any other small wires connected) this should make the solenoid click and draw the contact bar inside up to the contacts. THis should give continuity between the large posts.
Other words = if you have 48v pos at one post when it clicks it will be at both big posts........ hope this makes sense?

[YeahItsFast]

I helped put a lift kit on and during the process, also left the tow switch in normal on position. At some point the jack bridged 2 terminals of the motor and threw a few sparks.

We wrapped up the installation, went to test the cart out and no forward, just reverse. Tested the switch, the solenoid and the motor, all were fine. Now we don't even get reverse anymore.

By testing I mean we disconnected the 2 big wires from the solenoid and Ohm'd out the solenoid. I also ohm'd the terminals on the motor (with all wires disconnnected) and all ohm'd out correctly. A1-A2 F1-F2. Nothing between F - A.

The motor keeps a constant 49V though, only way to stop that is by disconnected the jumper wire on the motor controller side of the solenoid that goes to the wiring harness to the motor controller. It seems to be the power wire, probably a 12 gauge wire.

Any way to test and see if the computer is fried? Or another way to test the motor to actually hot wire it and see it spin?

[shadowman]

Originally Posted by YeahItsFast

I helped put a lift kit on and during the process, also left the tow switch in normal on position. At some point the jack bridged 2 terminals of the motor and threw a few sparks.

We wrapped up the installation, went to test the cart out and no forward, just reverse. Tested the switch, the solenoid and the motor, all were fine. Now we don't even get reverse anymore.

By testing I mean we disconnected the 2 big wires from the solenoid and Ohm'd out the solenoid. I also ohm'd the terminals on the motor (with all wires disconnnected) and all ohm'd out correctly. A1-A2 F1-F2. Nothing between F - A.

The motor keeps a constant 49V though, only way to stop that is by disconnected the jumper wire on the motor controller side of the solenoid that goes to the wiring harness to the motor controller. It seems to be the power wire, probably a 12 gauge wire.

Any way to test and see if the computer is fried? Or another way to test the motor to actually hot wire it and see it spin?

what year cart? chances are if it had a run tow switch and you didn,t put it in tow and disconnect main battery cables and you shorted something you took out the controller.........they are very very touchy about this and you arn,t the 1st to do it..............................

[YeahItsFast]

2006 precedent, no way to test the controller though huh?

[tacomaman]

make sure either the f1 or f2 wires on the controller didnt come disconnected when installing the lift. ive seen that happen a few times.

[shadowman]

Originally Posted by YeahItsFast

2006 precedent, no way to test the controller though huh?

i beleive there is but i can,t tell you someone else will have to...........................

[tacomaman]

Originally Posted by YeahItsFast

2006 precedent, no way to test the controller though huh?

there is a diode there in line with the solenoid....if its burned up...controller is definitely bad. check it. its about 3 inches long with a clear plastic type cover over it.