Quick electrical question - looking for 12v

[CImpala95]

Hey, guys. Quick question.

I have a 2008 Precedent with the ultimate light kit. Is there a good place to tap into that system and get 12v? Or should I get a separate voltage reducer?

I looked at the wiring diagrams, but the light system isn't in there.

Thanks!

[Stevegrmich]

. . are you looking to add an additional 12v accessory?

[CImpala95]

Yes. A basic security system. Not for "security" so much as just to hit the lock button and have the siren chirp. (Long story... but one of my friends said it couldn't be done, so naturally it MUST be done!)

[Epb]

You can tap your light kit but this may overload the fuse, just find the + & - at the lights and verify 12v. If its a short term deal to show your buddy then tap battery(s) for 12v. Long term i would go to a separate battery or reducer for accessories.

[CImpala95]

So... the light kit is already running off some sort of reducer then? The security system will take minimal power so I wouldn't expect any issues with overloading the fuse. I just want to be sure that I'm pulling power from the whole pack rather than one battery due to a very low but constant draw for the security system.

Although this project was primarily to prove him wrong, I may decide that I like it and could leave it in there. Either way, I want to install it properly.

Thanks!

[scottyb]

Is the cart set up with 4/12 or 6/8 volt batteries?
With 6/8v you will find a factory 16v > 12v reducer on board.
With 4/12v you will find they just use one battery. Both of these methods create an imbalance in the pack if the 12v power is used very much. This leads to early failure of the pack. A 48 > 12v DC reducer is the better way to go.

[CImpala95]

4/12. So the OEM light kit only pulls from one battery then?

[stang99x]

Originally Posted by CImpala95

4/12. So the OEM light kit only pulls from one battery then?

When you install the light kit, there is a blue wire in the harness under the cover in the center that has a spade connector on it that isn't connected that you connect. The light kit comes with a blue wired fuse setup that plugs into an unused plug off of one of the main batteries. The ground then plugs into the unused ground coming off the controller that has a yellow female barrel plug.

I have read and heard of those who don't like using the battery without a reducer, however I do it all the time. There are guys out there that swear it kills a battery pack faster, and there are guys who says it has no effect. Having asked an engineer from a manufacturer, he said the answer we give is that the customer should add a reducer.....however in testing it really had no difference in effect to battery life in a large test group.

The minute draw that a security system has to me would be negligible. I wouldn't add something that had a huge draw to a single battery though. When I got into the business I asked several techs from several different companies and these were guys who'd been doing this stuff all their lives. The consensus was it didn't hurt anything not using a reducer and thus I have not used them in practice either. While I'm sure there are members here who will disagree with me on this, that's the beauty of being able to ask so many people in one place. I have conflicting opinions with several folks here on several things, however I'm not here to combat or disrespect their opinions. Thus, this is just my honest opinion learned from my experiences fixing and modifying these puppies.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by stang99x

When you install the light kit, there is a blue wire in the harness under the cover in the center that has a spade connector on it that isn't connected that you connect. The light kit comes with a blue wired fuse setup that plugs into an unused plug off of one of the main batteries. The ground then plugs into the unused ground coming off the controller that has a yellow female barrel plug.

I have read and heard of those who don't like using the battery without a reducer, however I do it all the time. There are guys out there that swear it kills a battery pack faster, and there are guys who says it has no effect. Having asked an engineer from a manufacturer, he said the answer we give is that the customer should add a reducer.....however in testing it really had no difference in effect to battery life in a large test group.

The minute draw that a security system has to me would be negligible. I wouldn't add something that had a huge draw to a single battery though. When I got into the business I asked several techs from several different companies and these were guys who'd been doing this stuff all their lives. The consensus was it didn't hurt anything not using a reducer and thus I have not used them in practice either. While I'm sure there are members here who will disagree with me on this, that's the beauty of being able to ask so many people in one place. I have conflicting opinions with several folks here on several things, however I'm not here to combat or disrespect their opinions. Thus, this is just my honest opinion learned from my experiences fixing and modifying these puppies.

Be aware there is a lot of misinformation being practiced out there because that's the way they always did it...... it doesn't make it right.
People are still telling owners to deep discharge their batteries and not use DC>DC reducers. You have to consider the source when you hear this stuff.

Manufactures do not put voltage reducers on the cart because it is designed play daytime golf for 5 yrs period. The problems created in the recharge cycle with an imbalanced battery pack are very real and these problems do shorten the life of the whole pack. Believe me - or email the Trojan Battery Company technicians. They tend to know what they are talking about or just keep practicing and spreading the misinformation.

Those of us who know better are here for rebuttal

[stang99x]

I'm neither practicing nor spreading misinformation. I'm doing what works, and always has worked without fail without having to install another device within an electrical system that can itself fail. By not using a reducer, it eliminates a component that can fail over time just as any electronic device, and it reduces costs associated with converters. I've personally worked on carts that have run solid 6-7 years on one pack with multiple addon's run without a converter.

I also don't sell those products from a retail or internet setting. As I stated, the great thing about the net and forums is that you can freely get opinions of multitudes of people who work in all aspects of the business. I do so without negating other's opinions as to the subject, or saying that someone who feels opposite of what I do doesn't know what they are talking about.....perhaps another has experienced an event that has caused their opposite belief. Electronics can act in very funny ways, and no two systems are ever exactly the same. While I can appreciate that you are in the business and a supporting vendor of this site, that doesn't mean that you should go around accusing someone of spreading or practicing misinformation. I do the very same repairs and installations that everyone else does and IN MY EXPERIENCE (as I stated to begin with) it has made no difference. In asking industry insiders the same questions, they have responded just as I have here.......that there are some things that function fine without all the stuff that is supposedly required. This topic would be no different than the fact that you believe that a wire should be soldered, whereas many engineers say a crimp is better. Perhaps in your experience, the solder works better.....it doesn't really matter because neither answer is wrong. It could be done either way successfully. I had no intent on starting a conversation down this road, however I won't stand aside while someone makes accusations as you did in your previous post.